Caminito Del Rey............

April 17, 2025

Now as regular readers will already know our creative travels normally involve museums, art galleries, the odd church, all intermingled with various coffee stops, lunch stops and of course the odd restorative bottle of the local red marching juice.

However, for our Andalucian adventure we had our sister-in-law Jackie with us. She is most definitely “action girl” and during this trip she had quietly acquiesced to our usual sight seeing routine as long as we agreed to do the Caminito Del Rey. I mean how hard could it be and the “Dangerous Brothers” have never been one to back down from a challenge. So, Jackie had booked it. Meantime Mrs. C (the only sane one amongst us) was unanimous that she was not going to take part in this “fools errand” and instead would stay at the visitor center with a good book and a glass of red.

The Caminito Del Rey literally means “The King’s Little Path”. Nestled in the gorges of the central part of Malaga province and about 60 kms north of Malaga city, the Caminito Del Rey is a rather unique one-way trail, running along walkways that literally cling to sheer cliff faces.

It was built between 1901 and 1905 as a service path for workers at the hydro-electric power plants in the Gaitanes Gorge connecting the Chorro and Gaitanejo reservoirs. It gained its name after King Alfonso XIII walked along it in 1921, during the inauguration of the Conde Del Guadalhorce dam.

Indeed, this little adventure is surprisingly popular so if you are mad enough to want to do it, you will need to book a few months in advance to be sure to secure a spot.

We arrived at the carpark (at the top a long winding drive up a mountain) only to then buy a Euro 2.50 per person bus ticket to take you some 2.5 km back down the mountain to the northern access. Remember to keep your bus ticket as it is a return journey…..hold that thought! Upon arrival you show you tickets and be sure not to be late as you have an allotted time and miss it at your peril.

You are then told to hike some 500m back up the mountain (are you sensing a theme here) to enter the trail via an 800 meter tunnel.

Not an ideal start if you don’t like the dark, tunnels or enclosed spaces.

Ah, I forgot to mention that this hike is considered “moderately difficult” so dress like you are attempting the north face of the Eiger and if you don’t like tunnels, the dark, heights, suffer from vertigo or claustrophobia and would wish to avoid potentially falling into a rushing gorge of water from a height of anywhere between 40 meters and 100 meters, then this little escapade is probably not for you. I am not selling it am I :-)

Once through the tunnel you have a twenty minute gentle hike to the mustering point. The hike is guided and we chose one of the English speaking tours. We were then sorted in to groups of 20 and given a radio headphone listening device, so that we were in communication with our guide. We were also given a climbing helmet, which we were told was compulsory and should be worn at all times.

Our guide then took us through the do’s and don’ts whilst casually mentioning that due to safety reasons, and numerous fatalities, the hike had been closed for a period. However all was now ok especially if we kept our helmets on!

Safety briefing from our intrepid guide.

With all the formalities completed we set off.

All smiles at the start of the hike with my trusty Leica M10P and 50mm summilux.

The hike started off quite gently. It appears that here are two canyons, the first where the walkway rises to about 40 meters above the river and then the second, where the path rises to 100 meters!

I must say that the path is sufficiently wide enough that for those with a modest fear of heights, you can feel moderately at ease as your fingernails dig in to the cliff face.

The first canyon - a false sense of security.

Things starting to get higher and the path narrower.

All of a sudden the scenery starts to get dramatic.

Well all was going smoothly, if not a little gingerly, as I managed to manually focus the M10P whilst trying not to fall to a watery grave. The scenery was awesome and the surrounding cliffs enormous. As I looked up I could see eagles circling. Hmm, perhaps they were waiting for their lunch!
Then we came upon a bridge, or should I say a narrow slab of concrete spanning the gorge. Our guide could sense the rise in panic amongst the group and assured us that this bridge was closed on account that people kept falling off it!

Nope, there is no way I am going across that!

Thankfully we then came to a rest-stop and we took the opportunity to take a drink and nourishment. I forgot to mention you will want a day pack with some essential nutrients such as crisps (well unlike my doctor I think crisps are an essential nutrient), a chocolate bar or three and of course some water. There are no bins for waste so what you carry in you carry out.

Lunch of Champions as Phil breaks out the Twix bar.

As we were walking along the path our guide provided a running commentary about the flora and fauna. Indeed he seemed fixated about the wild onions that were growing along the trail. According to him if you eat them they will kill you in a few minutes. However, for those “gentlemen of a certain age" who might suffer from haemorrhoids, sticking the leaves where the sun don’t shine apparently has quite restorative effects and can cause the aforesaid items to retreat and seek a safe haven in quite short order. So that’s all good then!

We were now about half way and the temperature had risen considerably so in all seriousness you do need a good supply of water to avoid dehydration.

We then came across the Cortijo de Hoyo, a refuge, now in ruins. It was apparently where the railway workers stayed whilst they built the railway along the opposite side of the gorge. It had clearly seen better times. Allegedy there was once a family who lived here and the wife had given birth to 13 children. Just shows the benefits of no T.V. or internet!

The Cortijo de Hoyo with the train line running behind.

At this point we entered the second phase of our walk and things started to get serious as our path rose to 100 meters above the river below. We could see part of the old trail below us and no wonder so many people had died using it.

Thats definitely a train journey I would like to take.

You can see the original path underneath the new path.

In all seriousness it was getting higher and narrower by the minute and my heart rate began to rise considerably. Then ahead I could see a platform that jutted out in to the abyss where we were invited to take photos.

A photo opportunity apparently - especially if you are nuts!

The Dangerous Brothers always rise to a challenge - then we realized the platform had a glass floor!

Yes we managed a picture on the platform courtesy of our guide who then said “don’t look down”. So naturally we all looked down and realized that we were on a glass platform 100 meters up. This was my first wobble of the day but I sucked it up and was determined to press on. I mean how much worse could it get?

Well apparently a lot worse. There is only one way out of the Caminito Del Rey and that is a bridge that spans 40 metres across the gorge and 100 metres above the river and rocks below. In his Spanish lilt our guide said it would not be a problem as the bridge does not swing from side to side, only up and down. So that’s all good then.

Well our guide was smiling when he said it was safe.

At this point we had a team meeting. Phil said that because I was the eldest that I should go first and that I shouldn’t worry as they would be right behind me; about 40 meters behind me.

Big mistake posing for a selfie as I looked down. Did you know that adrenaline is brown!

And away…….As the eldest I shouldered my responsibility and crossed the rubicon.

Little brother may be smiling but I wouldn’t want to be the one standing behind him!

So we made it through the Caminito Del Rey. The guide said that after the bridge the final 500 meters would be the easiest….I think not.

We then all met up and everyone was smiling and much more relaxed, until our guide said that we now had a gentle 1 km hike back to where the bus would collect us and take us back to our car.

In fact although the scenery was very pleasant the adrenaline rush was wearing off and the last 1 km was actually the hardest.

On reflection I am really glad we pushed ourselves and did this challenge. It was really like swimming the channel; I enjoyed it so much that I never want to do it again!

Well what a fantastic way to end our Andalucian adventure. I can’t help but feel that we have only scratched the surface of this wonderful part of Spain. I do hope you have enjoyed joining us and that I may have tempted you to book a flight and explore this wonderful country.

All the very best from Plymouth U.K.

Fabulous Alhambra..........

April 15, 2025

For those of you who have read my previous two blogs you will know what an action packed time we were having during our magical mystery tour of Spain’s wonderful region of Andalucia. Marbella, Mijas, Ronda, Jerez, Cadiz and Seville. How could we possibly top that?

Well our next and final destination was most probably the one for which we had all been secretly waiting. We were heading in to the high country of the Sierra Nevada, to visit Granda and more specifically, the Al Hambra Palace.

The drive to Granada was a couple of hours and as the altitude increased the air temperature became cooler.

Granada is an interesting place; it is not pedestrianised but many of the roads only allow authorised vehicles. So, once you have booked your hotel, ring ahead before entering the town and make sure you take the designated route or else prepare for the fine!

Our hotel was called Sercotel Palacio De Los Gamboa and was located in the centre of town. They were super organized and had provided detailed written instructions from the edge of town, including pictures of landmarks and the correct roads to take. Even with all of that guidance we still had a couple of squeaky bottom moments. Once we had parked the car securely in their underground car park we breathed a sigh of relief, checked in and had a cold beer!

We had arrived early evening and the weather was looking really mixed with dark clouds and intermittent rain forecasted. However, we weren’t going to give in to a bit of bad weather and after all, we do live in Plymouth, where it has been known to suffer its own share of wind and rain.

Given that we only had a few hours of light left we decided to head directly to the Mirador de San Nicolas, which is said to offer one of the best panoramic views of Granada as well as the famous Al Hambra Palace.

It took us a good 30 minutes of slogging uphill to reach the church but it was well worth it. For this particular visit and with the light beginning to fade it was all about getting the best view of Alhambra.

We found a lovely bar called El Balcón de San Nicolás. We only wanted a drink and they welcomed us on to their lovely terrace. Following our Jerez experience we ordered chilled sherry and peanuts and then enjoyed the view of the Alhambra, and what a view!

The best view of Al Hambra from the terrace of El Balcón de San Nicolás.

The best way to enjoy Al Hambra Palace, from a terrace with a glass of chilled sherry.

The next morning we were up early to enjoy an 8.00 a.m. cafe con leche and a pastry from one of the local bakeries. Our hotel had recommended we book a taxi to take us the short drive to the Alhambra. It is only a 5 minute drive but if you decide to walk it will take you a good 40 minutes and it is all uphill. I think it was the best five euros we spent whilst in Granada.

Having been deposited at the entrance to Alhambra, we scanned our tickets and passed through the entry check. Our ticket allowed us to download an audio guided tour. However you needed earphones, which we we had conveniently forgotten and the guide seemed to be eating our phones’ data. So we deleted this and pressed on.

The Al Hambra Palace is located on a rocky hill, on the banks of the river Darro, protected by mountains and surrounded by forest and stands as a testament to Moorish civilization.

Although originally constructed for military purposes, in the 13th century, after the establishment of the Nasrid Kingdom, it became the royal residence of King Mohammed Ibn Yusuf Ben Hamar (better known as Alhamar). The name Alhambra originates from the arabic meaning red or vermillion. The Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic Monarch conquered Granada.

We spent almost 5 hours walking around the palace and its grounds. I wholeheartedly recommend you book an early ticket slot in order to avoid the crowds (even out of season it was busy) and as the sun rises so does the temperature.

Alhambra is not a singular palace but an entire complex housing Renaissance and medieval palaces and courtyards, all within one fortress.

We decided to visit the Nasrid Palace first in order to beat the crowds. You have a designated time and they will not let you in before this in order to limit the number of people. This shows proper organisation and provides for a much better viewing experience, unlike the Real Alcazar in Seville.

After the Nasrid Palace we enjoyed the beautiful gardens before visiting the Kasbah, a fortress at the western tip of the Al Hambra complex. A climb to the top of the high tower is very much recommended as the views are superb. Our tour was completed by a climb up to the Generalife which provided spectacular views of the Alhambra as well as Granada itself.

There is plenty online which provides in-depth information about the history of this wonderful complex. From my perspective, it was simply a beautiful walk where my photographer’s eye was constantly treated to image after image. Let me now provide you with a tour of Alhambra through my eyes.

A gentle stroll through the gardens as your enter the complex.

You guessed it, out with the analogue sat-nav.

Beautiful architecture and wonderful light and shadows.

The detail in these archways is something to behold.

I waited for 15 minutes to get a clear view for this image.

Can you imagine having this as your home?

The Palacio de Carlos V - I just loved the light and shade.

The view from mid-way up the Torre de la Vela.

View from the top with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance.

The Al Hambra Complex and rooftops of Granada from the Generalife.

Well I hope this gives you a flavour of the beautiful Alhambra. The visit was everything it promised to be and I look forward to going back and visiting it over a couple of days so that I may spend quality time in each area of the complex.

So there you have it, the climax of our Andalucian tour……or was it? Well during the drive back to Marbella we had one last detour. So if you want to see my nerves tested to their limits look out for my next blog “Caminito Del Rey”.

Warmest regards from Plymouth U.K.

Maravilloso Andalusia (Part 2)...........

April 10, 2025

After our initial exploration of Marbella, Mijas and the wonderful Ronda, it was time to head down south.

Our initial destination was to be Jerez, but enroute we wanted to pass by the port town of Tarifa and take a look at the Atlantic coastline.

Given that we were under no time constraints we decided to take a steady drive along the coast road. As we turned a bend we caught our first glimpse of Gibraltar. In fact, we had decided that we would give Gibraltar a miss, mainly due to the fact that Phil and Jackie had already visited and that the prospect of a lengthy queue at Spanish customs, both in and out, held no joy for me.

Our first glimpse of Gibraltar rising in the distance.

As we arrived in Tarifa I decided to take an image of the welcome sign. Good job really as the town offered little appeal and we couldn’t find anywhere to park. It really just seemed like a transit point to and from Africa. So we about-turned and departed in short order.

A little disappointed but never defeated, we exited Tarifa, turned left and headed off along the coast road. We eventually managed to find a left turn which ended up taking us to a long sandy beach from where I managed to obtain a much more scenic view of Tarifa, with the shadow of Africa rising in the background.

Having had the strong Atlantic breeze clear the cobwebs we pressed on and found a super little cafe to enjoy our usual Spanish breakfast of tostada con tomate and a steaming cafe con leche.

After breakfast we again turned left only to be immediately stopped by the local constabulary who were clearly on the look-out for nefarious types. However, when the officer looked through the window of our car and saw me cradling the Leica M10P he gave me a smile and waved us on. Clearly a man who knows style when he sees it.

We pressed on and eventually parked up, walked through a small forest in the direction of the sea and came across a secluded headland, which really provided some wonderful views of this un-spoilt stretch of the Spanish coast.

We found an abandoned boat that clearly had been used for some illegal activity but provided my resident model with a good opportunity for an impromptu photo-shoot.

You can see from the amount of wind turbines lining the mountain tops that this area of Spain has a strong and constant wind (a bit like me according to Mrs. C). Indeed, it seems to be a mecca for kite surfers although, it is a brave man that ventures out in to that Atlantic surf.

As we stared out across the Straits of Gibraltar, in search of the coast of Africa, my 50 mm summilux managed to capture a rather pleasing shot of my little brother.

This must have been what Spain had been like before the advent of mass-tourism and high-rise beach hotels. We could have stayed by this part of the coast all day but “when needs must the devil drives” and we wanted to hit Jerez by mid-afternoon.

Indeed, our accommodation in Jerez was the beautiful “Villa Jerez”, located a 15 minute walk from the centre of town. This is a converted villa, set in its own grounds and is an absolutely perfect location for a stay in Jerez and as a base to visit other nearby towns.

The rooms were superb and the staff absolutely wonderful. I must give a warm thanks to the lovely Reyes, who went above and beyond the call of duty to help us during our stay. Moreover, it had its own free secure parking, something that is difficult to find when driving around this part of Spain. So this meant we could forget about the car and head off into town, á pied, in search of afternoon refreshments.

I was keen to line the old stomach as that evening we had booked a sherry tour and so I wanted to ensure that I was fully prepared for maximum tasting. We did find a very nice bar which served an excellent beer and a tapas of slow-cooked braised ox cheeks. Yes, uncle Phil and I were in our happy places.

Jerez is located in what is known as the “Sherry Triangle”, an area in the province of Cádiz between the cities of Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria. Like most of these Andalucian cities it has its old quarter, which in the case of Jerez surrounds an 11th century Moorish fortress known as Alcázar de Jerez. We have put that on the list for our next visit to Jerez.

The city is also the home of the famed riding school, The Royal School of Equestrian Art. Much to our disappointment there were no shows during the period of our stay and so this is one of many reasons for a return visit.

One thing I immediately noticed about Jerez was that the roads were lined with beautiful orange trees. Apparently the oranges, of which there are a plentiful supply, are often bitter and not intended for eating.

The trees are planted for purely ornamental purposes and to create some shade. I am reliably informed that any tampering with these trees or their fruit is liable to result in having your collar felt by the local constabulary. So enjoy their fragrance and the shade and nothing else!

Rather a nice little pub for when the sun falls below the yard-arm.

For a photographer, one of the key areas in most Spanish cities to offer photographic potential is the local market. Jerez is no exception and the Mercado Central de Abastos was a bustling hub of fish, meat and vegetable sellers.

One particular fish monger seemed to be “speed filleting” whilst singing out loud. He was happy to demonstrate his skills for my camera and upon enquiry it seems his song was a traditional Spanish fisherman’s song, the title of which roughly translated as, “She was only the fishmonger’s daughter, but she laid on the slab and said fillet”. Hmmm……I told him that I believed that they sing a not dissimilar version in our local Plymouth fish market!

Olé - An expert fish filleter demonstrates his skills.

The theme of sherry making is everywhere.

As previously mentioned, we had decided to book a sherry tour. There are many on offer but our choice was the Bodegas Fundador. Founded in 1730, this is the oldest winery in Jerez and has been closely linked with the Domecq name since its earliest days. The winery is now owned by Andrew Tan, the wealthiest businessman in the Philippines.

The tour is really interesting and you are taken through the whole process of sherry and brandy making. The sherry is stored / aged in oak barrels. Interestingly, they loan some of the really old barrels (up to 200 years old) to the fine whisky maker Macallan’s, who age their whiskey in them to give it that “unique” taste.

Another reason that we chose Bodegas Fundador is that they hold a warrant from the British royal family and are makers of the famous Harvey’s Bristol Cream.

Following our tour we tasted some traditional Harvey’s Bristol Cream, which they serve over ice and with a slice of orange. It really is a rather nice way to drink it. We also tasted one of their aged brandies which they served over ice with a ginger beer. Again this was quite delicious and both drinks may form part of the summer apéro selection chez Chivers.

The only thing I would say is that Bodegas Fundador is in a slightly sketchy part of town. Given that the tasting does not finish until 9.30 p.m., and if like me your manual focussing skills may have become somewhat impaired after tasting copious amounts of sherry and brandy, do as we did and ask them to call you a taxi.

Very traditional and still a major producer of very fine sherry.

40,000 barrels of sherry and brandy are stored in this one cellar.

Some aged and signed barrels of the really good stuff.

The next morning some of us awoke as fresh as a daisy whilst one of us, not mentioning any names or wishing to cast aspersions, had one of their famed “heads”.

After a cooked breakfast (I took the kill or cure approach) we decided to go on a day-trip to nearby Cádiz. The drive was very easy and takes about 30 mins.

The approach to Cádiz is over the rather spectacular “La Pepa Bridge” (also known as as the Constitution of 1812 Bridge). At a total length of 3,092 meters it is the longest bridge in Spain and provided me with my first keeper of the day.

Perhaps it was being on the Atlantic coast and being so adjacent to Africa but Cádiz had a completely different feel to it and I knew it was going to be my sort of town.

Cádiz is believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Western Europe, starting around 1100 BC with its Phoenician founding as “Gadir” and followed by Roman, Moorish and Spanish rule.

Its strategic location allowed it to develop as a major port and encouraged trade. It also became well known as the departure point for the second voyage of Christopher Columbus to the Americas. As a result the city went on to become the sole port with a monopoly over Spanish trade with the Americas.

Once again a city of narrow streets where you must embrace the shadows and enjoy the highlights and above all, always remember to look behind you.

I was keen to find a more panoramic view of the city. This was provided by a visit to the Torre Tavira. This is the highest point in the old part of town. A ticket costs about 8 euros per person and is well worth the money. There is also a camera obscura but unfortunately all the slots were booked and that is something I would book in advance next visit.

Clearly, if you do not like heights then this is not for you but from the top of the tower you have a super 360 degree view of Cádiz.

Rooftops of Cadiz with Catedral de Santa Cruz in the distance.

Rooftops of Cadiz - a game of two halves.

Rooftops of Cadiz with La Pepa bridge in the distance.

As you now know every day on a Chivers tour revolves around food. Phil managed to find a very interesting restaurant in the heart of the old town called Casa Lazo. The owner really knew his stuff and in minutes we were seated, drinks arrived followed by a large sharing plate of grilled sardine, red snapper and sole. This was followed by a main course of grilled sea bream and freshly fried hand-cut chips, all washed down with lashings of the local beer. A perfect way to end a perfect day.

We had seen enough to know that we will be returning to Cádiz for an extended stay as we had such a wonderful time without even scratching the surface.

Our final destination for this phase of our trip was Seville. Again Jerez proved to be an excellent central point to stay as the drive from Jerez to Seville was only 1 hour 15 mins.

We had booked to stay at the hotel Las Casas De La Judeira. The hotel is located near the centre of the historic old town and simply getting to this hotel by car involved google maps par excellence and a strong nerve, as the roads are really busy and super narrow.

Rooms are grouped around quiet leafy courtyards.

We had a nice stay at the hotel which is basically a complex of interwoven dwellings in the old Jewish quarter. The rooms are indispersed with leafy courtyards and flagstone alleyways.

We were so excited to stay here and whilst we had no specific complaints we felt slightly underwhelmed as it really did not live up to its hype (also it was twice the cost of our other hotels).

The main reception building is quite stunning, especially the Piano bar on the first floor, which by the way serves a rather excellent martini. However I honestly felt that the rest of the hotel is rather tired and in need of a thorough update and renovation. I am glad we had the experience but next time we will stay somewhere different for sure. Indeed, Seville has so much to offer but of all the places we visited, I felt this was the first city we were treated like a tourist rather than a guest.

On our first afternoon in Seville the weather was really unsettled but we braved the rain and took the 20 minute walk to the Plaza de Espana. This grand building was built in 1928 and designed by Anibal Gonzalez and was built to showcase Spain’s industry and technology exhibits at the 1929 Worlds Fair.

You will see from the pictures below that the complex is in the form of a huge half circle, accessible by four bridges over a moat, which represent the ancient kingdoms of Spain. In the centre is the Vicente Traver Fountain. Many tiled alcoves were built to represent different provinces of Spain.

The modern renovation of this stunning building has been adapted for use as government offices for various government agencies.

A simply stunning piece of architecture.

The next morning the weather broke, we had clear skies and the temperature rose a few notches. This was fortuitous as our morning was to be spent at the wonderful Royal Alcázar of Seville.

I didn’t realise that this is Europe’s oldest royal place that is still in use. We had pre-booked tickets and you must bring a printed copy of the ticket plus your passport to gain entry. Even with tickets there are long queues so be sure not to miss your ticket slot.

Bearing in mind that our visit was out of season, there were a tremendous number of tour parties so I can’t imagine what it must be like during high season.

This palace was formerly the site of the Islamic-era citadel of the city. Construction commenced in the 10th century and then developed in to a larger palace complex in the 12th and 13th centuries.

After the Castillian conquest of the city in 1248, the site underwent a rebuild in the Mudéjar-style and most of the Islamic-era structured disappeared. It is now widely regarded as the preeminent example of the Mudéjar style in the Iberian Peninsular. For those of you who have visited the Al Hambra Palace in Ganada, you will note a striking similarity.

Through the main gate and I am already enjoying the light and shadows.

Stunning architecture - not dissimilar to Al Hambra Palace.

I found the initial main buildings badly organized from a visitors perspective. There were people everywhere, with no orderly flow, which meant it was very difficult to fully appreciate the beauty of the place.

Then we walked out in to the main gardens which is really where the magic happens. The gardens are simply enchanting and we spent over an hour enjoying their beauty and tranquility.

As someone who enjoys capturing imagery in black and white, I am always looking for shadows and reflections. The underground Baños de Maria de Padilla provided complete calm from the frenetic activity in the palace and I love this image of the reflection in the vaulted bathing area.

Without a doubt I plan to return to the Royal Alcázar and next time I will take one of the guided tours so that I can fully appreciate the internal parts of the palace.

Now after all that sightseeing food was the next order of the day. In one of the bars we ordered drinks and tapas and I received a lesson from Chef Ricardo Miró on how to correctly carve Iberico ham. He was so precise and not a scrap was wasted. My problem is that I eat as much as I carve!

After lunch we continued our walk and came across The Metropol Parasol, alternatively referred to as Setas de Sevilla (“Mushrooms of Seville”). This is a large, predominantly wood structure, located at La Incarnation Square.

The structure was designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer and was completed in 2011. Although this structure is Seville’s third most visited urban landmark, I find it very much out of keeping with the style and design of the rest of Seville’s old quarter. Then again, I am a man of a certain age!

I had another cause for celebration whilst in Seville, my 62nd birthday. Incredible I hear you say, the old boy doesn’t look a day over 45! Well as you know I rarely photograph dinners as red wine and manual focus are mutually exclusive. However, as I “poured” out of the restaurant the family paparazzi managed to snap an image of me in my happy place!

I left Seville nursing a hangover and pondering about how to structure a return visit. I really enjoyed Seville but retained a hint of disappointment that we did not do it the justice it deserved. Now we have had a taste of what is on offer a return visit can surely be planned accordingly.

We then headed off to Granada via an un-planned stop in Cordoba. A mid-morning coffee and sandwich was in order and given our lack of schedule we were free to make a quick detour.

Imagery by Leica, hydration by Cruzcampo.

As a result of Cordoba being literally a coffee break, there was no time to visit the beautiful Mezquita Catedral de Cordoba. Once again, this tour was a taster and for sure convinced us that a return visit is definitely required.

As we enjoyed a coffee a very friendly local spotted my Leica and came over to chat. He was clearly a big Leica fan. Once more evidence of the global Leica community.

So Cordoba brought the 2nd part of our Andalucian adventure to a close. However, there was so much more still to come as we headed off to Granada and the highlight of our tour, a visit to the famed Al Hambra Palace.

See you all again soon and warmest regards from Plymouth U.K.

Maravilloso Andalucia............

April 4, 2025

I have been traveling to Spain since I was a boy, both on family holidays and to visit my mum and dad who made Spain their home. So for me Spain was never about a holiday as such, it was about going home to spend time with family.

Now that we have a little more time on our hands Mrs. C and I, accompanied by my brother Phil and his wife Jackie, decided to put together an Andalucian extravaganza, as we drove around southern Spain to visit Marbella, Ronda, Cadiz, Jerrez, Sevilla and Granada. This was to be a trip to give us a taster for the area and an exploration of the culture of the region, rather than the traditional Brits on tour. With Mrs. C undertaking her usual military style planning we knew we were in for a wonderful time.

So we fired up Bucephalus, headed up the A38 to Bournemouth and we all boarded Ryan Air to Malaga.

A travel tip for budding visitors, check out Helle Hollis for your car rental (no sponsorship involved). They were superb. They collected us from Malaga airport, took us the 5 minute drive to their car hire centre and made the whole process pain free.

Fortunately, Jackie has a beautiful family home in Marbella, so for the first few days this was our base from which we were able to explore Marbella, neighbouring Mijas and take a day trip to Ronda.

For this visit I was traveling light and so for photographic purposes I was using the Leica M10P with the 50mm Summilux (pus 4 stop ND filter incase things got really bright) and for those wider images the 28mm Elmarit f2.8. So all in all a very compact little unit with two of my favorite lenses.

Now as regular readers know the Chivers Army marches firmly on its stomach and so for our first morning it was off to Marbella and a walk along the corniche to find somewhere for coffee and breakfast.

An early morning stroll along the Marbella corniche.

The girls headed straight for the Marbella Club jetty.

It didn’t take long to find a breakfast bar and so it was the Catalan breakfast for me; toast accompanied by olive oil, crushed tomato, a sprinkling of salt and lashings of Iberico ham, all washed down with a steaming cup of café con leche.

The one thing you notice in a country with a real cafe culture is that coffee is so reasonably priced. A café con leche clocks in at Euro 1.50 (about £1.27 at current exchange rates). I am not sure how that works in the UK where it is becoming almost impossible to buy an Americano for less than Euro 4.00. Someone is ripping someone off for sure.

A Michael Portillo moment - Phil in his happy place contemplating his choice of breakfast.

Breakfast view with angry clouds over Marbella beach.

The corniche is a bit old school but still super popular with the tourists.

As we headed toward the old town we came across the Avenida Del Mar, which contains 10 bronze sculptures by the old master himself, Salvador Dali. I would refer regular readers to my blog of 15th April 2018, “La Gare de Perpignan - Centre Du Monde,” where I was first introduced to the works of the old master.

One can only wonder what was in the mind of the great master?

After trying to see inside of the mind of Salvador Dali, never an easy task, we came to Parque de La Alameda and time for a team photo.

Could this be a team bench of contemplation?

Now the good thing about having my brother with us is that he is a good looking chap and is always up for a bit of model work. Here we see him just outside of Orange Square rocking the “Man at M&S meets Michael Portillo look”.

Rocking the “Man at M&S meet Michael Portillo” look.

Marbella really is a game of two halves. Of course you have the usual Spanish sea-front with its corniche full of bars and restaurants. However, step away from this and within 10 minutes you can be in the heart of the “old town”, taking coffee (or something stronger dependent upon your mileage) in the wonderful Orange Square.

The weather was absolutely perfect, sunny with some cloud cover with temperatures in the low 20 degrees centigrade.

It has to be six o’clock somewhere in the world.

I just love the narrow streets as they are a photographer’s paradise. Wherever you look an image just seems to present itself.

Embracing the shadows and enjoying the highlights.

All roads seem to lead back to Orange Square.

After an enjoyable tapas lunch involving albondigas (delicious meaty bites in a slightly spicy tomato sauce), patatas bravas and gambas pil pil, we decided to take the 30 minute drive up in to the mountains to visit Mijas Pueblo. It is a beautiful white washed village perched some 430 meters above sea level.

My travellers tip for the day is that upon arriving in Mijas head straight for the multi-story parking. There were plenty of spaces and it only cost a Euro.

As we walked out of the car park we were presented with the beautiful Santuario de la Virgen de la Pena. Originally built in the 17th century and situated next to panoramic views. The chapel is only small but entry is free (we always leave a small donation to help upkeep).

The Virgen of the Rock, Patron Saint of Mijas.

As you visit more and more Spanish villages a theme starts to develop. The core of every village is usually the church (normally more than one), which is always beautifully maintained. You have the main square which seems central to village life and then, you have the bullring. In Mijas we visited the Plaza de Toros de Mijas.

The bullring was built in 1900 and now serves as a museum and cultural centre, showcasing bullfighting history and traditions.

This particular bullring is located next to the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Concepcion. Interesting that there always seems to be a church and a graveyard next to the bullring. Maybe the matador didn’t always get the better of 700 kgs of raging Spanish beefsteak armed with horns like razors.

This particular bullring is no longer used for actual fights although, it is one few oval-shaped bullrings in Spain.

Our oval shaped bullring with spectacular mountain views.

The beautiful Mrs. C. This was as close as she was going to get to any bulls.

Beautiful….and the view is not bad either.

Our time in Marbella had gone very well but day two was one I was really looking forward to; a day trip to Ronda.

Now Spain had been experiencing severe storms and it seemed that the mountain route to Ronda had literally been washed away. Google maps to the rescue, an alternate route was secured and we set off down the motorway. The road was great and the journey took about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Now parking in these popular places can be a nightmare. We used an app called Parkimeter which allowed us to reserve a parking space in the Plaza del Socorro. It all works by number plate recognition. 25 Euros for the day and zero hassle. Don’t try and cheapskate it as you will be driving around all day.

This particular location was absolutely central and gave us immediate access to everything.

This mountain-top city, located in Spain’s Malaga province is a must visit. It is set dramatically above the El Tajo Gorge, which separates the city’s 15th century new town from its old town (which dates back to its Moorish rule).

For me, one of my bucket-list images was to capture the Puente Nuevo, a spectacular stone bridge spanning the gorge. The bridge dates back to 1793 and rises to some 100 meters above the river below.

View across Puente Nuevo towards Plaza de Socorro side.

The chamber above the central arch was allegedly used as a tortue chamber during the Spanish civil war, where some poor souls were dispatched by throwing them from the windows on to the jagged rocks below.

Now for those wishing to take the classic Puente Nuevo image I can save you a lot of pain and angst. Cross the bridge from the Plaza del Socorro side to the old town, turn right and take the path down the side of the mountain. Its a good walk, and remember, once down there you have to walk back up again!

As you walk across the bridge and look to your left, you will see a much smaller but very picturesque bridge, the Puente Viejo. I suggest you make this a secondary visit as there is only a very restricted view of Puente Nuevo from this bridge.

Beautiful light illuminating Ronda from the path to the bottom of the gorge.

It is quite steep but plenty of places to stop and take a breath and tremendous view along the way.

The ever willing model posing with Puente Nuevo in the background.

Our girls braving the weather from the viewpoint.

Now I know you are wondering why I haven’t yet mentioned food in Ronda. Well don’t worry, after our hike down and then back up the mountain we were ready to take on board some sustenance.

Our dear friends Jon and Rachel had recommended a restaurant that was listed in the Bib Gourmand, called Tregatá. We booked months in advance as it is really popular. It is not often that I am pleasantly surprised in a restaurant but Tregatá managed it. The service was friendly and efficient and the food superb. We shared starters of tuna tataki, a juicy omelette topped with wild boar and padron peppers and of course slow roasted ox cheek. My main was shoulder of pork in a wild mushroom fricassee. All of this was washed down with a bottle of the local red marching juice after which, I was looking for somewhere to take a siesta.

However, as regular readers know well, when Mrs. C is in charge there is no slacking and our next stop was the Plaza de Toros de Ronda. Bullfighting first started here back in 1784 and today is considered the largest bullring in Spain. Entrance to the facility is 9 euros and there is a very interesting museum.

Set in the pathway outside of the bullring are the names of famous matadors. Perhaps the most famous is Pedro Romero. He is a key figure in the history of Spanish bullfighting and it is said that he slew more than 5,600 bulls.

I have to say that whilst I am partial to the odd piece of grilled entrecôte I have no wish to watch the poor animal being tortured to death. However, bullfighting is still extremely popular in Spain…. it just not my thing.

Pedro Romero - slayer of more than 5,600 bulls.

Now you can see below that there is a small entrance behind a wall that the matador jumps behind when the 700 kg raging bull gets the upper hand. I can only suggest that these matador chaps must be a slender bunch as I had trouble getting my leg through the gap and there was no way I was getting behind there at speed.

Having spent an enjoyable hour or so in the bullring I was determined to visit Puente Viejo. So it was back over Puente Nuevo, turn left and head downhill through the backstreets. A very interesting walk and I grabbed a few images along the way.

As you can see below whilst still quite spectacular, the view from this bridge is rather more limited.

So having walked down the hill it was time to head back up to the car. As I always say, sometimes it pays to stop and look behind you.

By the time we reached our car my thighs were burning and the indigestion from that fine lunch was seeking its revenge!

Although the weather during our visit to Ronda was changeable, it may have been a blessing as hiking up and down a mountain at 30 degrees centigrade could be a real challenge. I have to say that I would return to Ronda in a heart-beat and next time I would stay the evening. A day trip is simply not long enough to do this wonderful city justice.

So what a great way to bring the first section of our trip to a close. However, stay tuned as there is so much more to come as we continue of our adventure through the heart of Andalucia.

Warmes regards from Plymouth U.K.

Pathfinders..........

March 5, 2025

Noun, Pathfinder: plural, Pathfinders - Meaning; a person who goes ahead and shows others a new path or way.

What do I mean by Pathfinders? Well we are people who have lived the majority of our lives outside of our country of birth. Our friends are often of a similar ilk and together we tend to spend our free time traveling and searching out new and interesting places.

Also Pathfinders tend to have no problem with traveling large distances to meet up for lunch, dinner or to spend a few days exploring a foreign location. Such is the case with our dear friends Rachel and Jon.

For those of you who regularly follow my blogs you will know that we spent a couple of weeks touring Texas and Louisiana with Jon and Rachel last year. Well, we received a call that they would be in the U.K. for a few days and so Mrs. C put plans in place for them to come stay with us in Plymouth, so that we could repay some of their generous hospitality and to introduce them to what the South West of England has to offer.

As always Mrs. C can organize everything… except the weather and a visit to Plymouth normally requires a wardrobe that covers all four seasons. The great thing is that Rachel and Jon are up for everything and anything and are totally adaptable so we had no worries.

We decided to split the visit into a day in Plymouth itself and then, a day up on Dartmoor, both to include some culinary activities.

As with all new guests we decided to start proceedings with my usual photowalk route around the Barbican and up on to the Hoe.

Given that Jon and Rachel are already residents of the “New World”, British but now living full-time in the U.S.A, we decided to start out at the Mayflower Steps, where the original Pilgrim Fathers left Plymouth for a life in the “New World”: the original Pathfinders!

Then it was up past the Admiral Mcbride Pub (no we didn’t stop for a beer and a crab sandwich although perhaps we should have!) and up to the start of Plymouth Hoe, where the old canons still guard the approach to The Cattewater and Sutton Harbour.

We took a stroll to Pier One, a regular coffee haunt for us and for an hour we sat in the sun, (yes I really did say sun) sipping our coffees and catching up with all our respective news.

Then as the sun departed and angry clouds rolled in from the English Channel we walked up on to the Hoe to experience the full vista.

Smeaton’s Tower from a different perspective.

Plymouth is a military town and all the armed forces are well represented. Plymouth Hoe has many tributes to our brave servicemen who sacrificed their lives so that others may remain safe from tyranny (particularly relevant in today’s torrid times). One of Jon’s family was actually an original RAF Pathfinder and so this memorial was very poignant for him.

We then made our way back across the park and down through the cobbled backstreets of the Barbican for a lunch-break. We had intended a quick sandwich and a coffee but ended up with a selection of tapas and a bottle of red. Of course we did!

The trees still with their winter coat as we head off back to the Barbican.

Back-allies of The Barbican - If they could talk these streets could surely tell some stories.

The Clippy and Coffe & Donuts - A regular stop-off for the bikers.

After our delicious calorific interlude we headed off along Southside Street as we had booked a tour of the Plymouth Gin Distillery (also known as the Black Friars Distillery).

Established in 1793, it is the oldest operating distillery in Britain.

Built in 1431, the distillery is located on what was once a Dominican Order monastery and rumour has it that the original Pilgrim Fathers stayed there while the Mayflower was in the harbour for repairs, before finally setting off to North America. I think I would have needed more than a few navy-strength gins to make that journey back in the 1600’s.

From 1793 the building was remodelled and extended as a gin distillery and was owned by the Coates family until 2004.

6284 Litres of the old Plymouth marching juice.

Since 2005 the Brand “Plymouth Gin” has been owned by the Scandinavian V&S Group (makers of Absolute Vodka) which in turn was later acquired by Pernod-Ricard. This is still an active distillery and indeed, every bottle of Plymouth Gin comes from a single Still from within this distillery.

Our charming tour guide, Kirsty, took us through the entire distillation process, which we didn’t realize includes a number of botanicals; juniper berries, lemon and orange peel, coriander, orris root and angelica.

Of course whilst interested in the process, we Pathfinders actually believe that the proof (100% proof and 57% alcohol by volume) is in the tasting. Kirsty provided us with small shots of neat Gin, Fruit Cup and Sloe Gin and told us that we only needed to sip it and inhale and that there was no requirement to drink it all! We Pathfinders always adopt a zero tolerance to waste, do not believe in spitting and so it was cheers for Chivers and down the hatch in one.

Navy Strength - 100% proof so If its good enough to light gunpowder………

The deal is done as Jon and Rachel purchase some provisions to take back to the “New World”.

After the tour we were taken to the Refectory Bar where we were treated to some “real-world tasting”. My initial tipple was a Sloe gin, poured lovingly over ice and mixed with a lemon tonic and some form of vegetation. That was okay for a warm-up and quenched the thirst before moving on to a house Martini. By now our party was cooking on gas and very much into the swing of things.

Time for some serious tasting at The Refectory Bar.

Fortunately we only had to stagger about ten yards to the neighbouring Barbican Kitchen restaurant where we enjoyed a rather delicious meal. I know it definitely was delicious, I am just having trouble remembering what exactly we ate! I do remember capturing this image of the Plymouth Barbican on the way home. Thank goodness for the Leica Q and its autofocus.

Day two involved a trip across Dartmoor to the market town of Tavistock. The weather had taken a turn for the worse (yes that is possible in the south west), the driving wind meant that the rain was practically horizontal and the mist was somewhat impairing our supposed scenic drive across the moor.

On arrival in Tavistock we did what all Pathfinders would do in such circumstances, found a coffee shop and had a bacon sandwich. Yes I know we had a lunch planned but we were introducing Jon and Rachel to our family tradition that whilst on holiday, everyone must have one portion of pork product per day in whatever format.

Tavistock is ideal for a rainy day. After coffee we headed for the Pannier Market which had something for everyone. Rachel and I were on the hunt for new hats, Kate was off to the craft shop to buy some crochet accessories and Jon was being a hipster and remembering the 1970’s (they say if you can remember the seventies you weren’t there!) and was looking at second hand records. For those under the age of 20, vinyl records allowed music to be heard through the use of an ancient form of electrical device called a “record player”.

Of course, there is no accounting for style and I think you will agree that my new hat definitely set the tone for the day. I know it is stylish because wherever I went people could not help but admire it…..I think!

Then it was off to the Cornish Arms for a calorific experience. Our favourite restaurant so I do not even have to look at the menu. I always start with the lamb raviolo (complete food orgasm) followed by loin of venison. I have simplified my menu choices but all come with accompanying items and sauces that are a sensation for the taste buds.

We had an absolutely charming waitress who was very proud of her body art and allowed me to capture her and her dragon tattoo in action.

Crystal - a.k.a. “The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo”.

As we drove back to Plymouth all were very much in their respective happy places. Regrettably Jon and Rachel had to depart the next morning as they were about to travel to southern Spain. You see, a true Pathfinder never stays in the same place for very long.

All I can say is that we had an absolutely wonderful couple of days and both Jon and Rachel really are kindred spirits. We all agreed that a joint adventure is very much in order. So it’s up to the planners, Mrs C and Rachel to come up with the locations whilst Jon and I peruse the wine list.

As I finish this blog it’s a beautiful day here in Plymouth and my thoughts are now turning to our upcoming Andalucian adventure with my brother and his wife. More of that in my next blog.

Meantime, stay well, stay safe and may I wish all you photographers good light!

Warmest regards from Plymouth U.K.

Back To The Desert..........

February 27, 2025

Well the new year started with a blur and Christmas already seems a world away. Although I would class myself as semi-retired I still undertake consultancy work which necessitates a couple of visits back to Dubai each year.

I consider myself one of those fortunate people who, in the final stage of my full-time career worked for and with some absolutely wonderful and life-changing people. Whilst I do enjoy spending time with loved ones I also occasionally enjoy pitching up in the office and spending some time back, albeit briefly in the corporate world.

Dubai itself holds so many many memories for me personally and for us as a family. Our kids grew up and were educated here, we made some enduring friendships, we stayed during a Gulf War and we were quarantined there during a pandemic. So each time I return I do so with mixed emotions.

Room with a view - Layers of Dubai - Novotel Suites Hotel.

Whilst each business visit to Dubai involves charging around town and attending meetings, we do get some private time. This is when Mrs. C and I like to revisit old haunts and catch up with the friends we miss.

You have probably guessed that most of our old haunts involve food. So what better place to start than breakfast at Tashas in Dubai Marina Mall. The food and service is always delightful and is a great place if, like me, you are a people watcher.

The beautiful people enjoying their Sunday morning breakfast at Tashas.

Of course, with my stomach full and my wallet considerably lighter (they are not giving it away at Tashas), I do enjoy a stroll around the Marina to capture a few images.

Dubai Marina - enjoying the highlights and embracing the shadows.

“Fly Dubai” - The infamous zipline across the Marina.

As regular visitors will already know Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic buildings, many of which I have captured and discussed at length in previous blogs. However the Burj Al Arab is one such icon that always continues to fascinate. So its off to the Souq Madinat and coffee at Costa Coffee, whose terrace offers one of the best views of this wonderful structure.

Two flat whites later and I am buzzing, so time for a walk around the Souq. It is a photographers dream and full of light and shadows.

The artist who draws pictures in a bottle full of sand.

I can never get enough of the shadows and highlights.

I can photograph buildings and cultural sites all day but for me, I just love to capture people.

My favourite model is Raif. We have known Raif since birth and have seen him grow into a wonderful young man. He has the most beautiful nature and every time he walks in front of my lens I seem to capture a different view of him.

Then there is his brother, the lovely Horatio. Each time we see him he seems to have grown another couple of inches. Both have a brother, Atticus but for some inexplicable reason he managed to avoid my lens. I will definitely make up for that omission when I next see them.

Ralph Shipley is one of my oldest and dearest friends. This is the man responsible for taking me out of the Uk and introducing me to the world of the professional expatriate. We were in business together and have had so many adventures together. One morning, over poached eggs and coffee, I managed to capture one of my favourite images of Ralph.

As regular followers will know, whilst living in Dubai I fell in love with the world of Leica. Indeed, in my honest and unashamedly biased opinion, Dubai is blessed with the best Leica store in the world. Credit for this and the development of the wonderful community of Leica devotees in the region must go to the owner of Leica Middle East, Mr. Assad Abboud. Everything he does is about quality and service.

This brings me to Gina. She manages Leica Store Dubai and is responsible for my complete collection of Leica cameras and lenses. Every Saturday morning I would pass by the store to have a coffee with Gina, talk photography and browse through the store’s new and used offerings. This is one of the things I really do miss after leaving Dubai. Of course, we all stay in touch through the medium of social media and I always block out a morning to visit Dubai Mall, see Gina and enjoy my morning coffee with her.

The Leica Girls - Anna Christina and Gina.

Back to our favourite haunts and afternoon tea at Al Qasr Dubai. It is still a most wonderful way to while away a couple of hours. This time we were looked after by a most wonderful lady from Malaysia. She had one of those smiles that I just had to capture.

Another of my oldest friends is Jeremy. A lawyer by training and a writer in his non-business life, we have done many a business deal together and he was my regular breakfast partner. We would meet at Stomping Grounds, just off the Jumeirah Beach Road, enjoy poached eggs (runny of course) with a side of bacon cooked extra crispy, all washed down with a steaming cup of the old Colombian marching juice.

Last year was a signature year for Jeremy ad his Spanish wife Marina, as they were blessed with the birth of their first child, Pelayo (which I believe means “of the sea”). So I was on a mission to update my people collection and grab a couple of images of Pelayo and the happy family.

No trip to Dubai would be complete without a visit to our special and most favourite place in the U.A.E., the wonderful Al Maha Desert Resort. For those that want to see more of Al Maha I would encourage you to read my blog of 24th May 2019 “A Desert Staycation”.

We had a Saturday free so we booked lunch and took the 1 hour drive along the Al Ain road to Al Maha. The minute we drove through the main gates of the nature reserve the calmness descended upon us.

Yes you really are a world away when you visit Al Maha.

I even managed to capture an image whilst paying the bill!

I know I go on about food a lot but let me assure you, lunch at Al Maha is sublime. Do you really think I would drive an hour in to the desert for mediocrity. Carpaccio of beef with a remoulade topped with caviar followed by lamb chops and a divine salad with a fresh lemon vinaigrette followed by a creme brulée that just melted in my mouth. Oh yes, you have already guessed that Steve was in one of his very happy places.

However, in addition to the food there is also the nature. The beautiful Arabian Oryx and Arabian Gazelles roam free and so for the nature photographer there is plenty to keep you occupied.

This is at 28mm uncropped so you can guess how close I was!

However, what really makes my time at Al Maha special is to share it with the wonderful Mrs. C. We have so many wonderful memories of our time in the Middle East and we really do have so much to be thankful for.

Mrs. C - Enjoying the view over Al Maha.

Well there you have it. I do hope you have enjoyed the highlights from our recent visit to Dubai. We have a great deal planned for the rest of the year including some visits to pastures new. So stay tuned and watch out for notifications on Instagram and Vero.

Ah yes, you thought I had forgotten. How could I finish without Mrs. C modelling The Bench of Contemplation……..

Its has been lovely to share or journey back to the desert with you. May I wish you all good health, good light and hopefully inspire you to grab your camera, get out there and capture some memories.

Warmest regards from a calm and sunny (yes really the sun is out) Plymouth U.K.

Our Haven On The Moor..........

February 18, 2025

Well, January was certainly turning out to be a relaxingly hectic month. We had a great time with the kids over New Year, Mudger looked after us royally during a fabulous two weeks in Spain and now, only two days after our return, we were taking Kate’s mum and dad to spend a night at our most favourite hotel in the Uk, the wonderful, the luxurious, the glorious Gidleigh Park Hotel, located on Dartmoor near the village of Chagford.

So, we dialed Gidleigh in to the satnav only to be confronted with all sorts of travel issues. Due to the weather we had been experiencing in the UK, there were all sorts of road closures and the main route in to Gidleigh, via Chagford High Street, was closed due to gas main renovations. So we decided to call the hotel direct for advice but could not get through. We tried their website only to be told that all phone lines were down after the recent storm.

Now regular readers know that La Famille Chivers are made of stern stuff and the Chivers family helicopter was in for an MOT. So, “when needs must the devil drives”, we fired up Bucephalus and with Mrs. C in the navigator’s seat we headed across Dartmoor, via Tavistock and pressed on through howling wind and driving rain.

We knew we were near to Gidleigh as the roads had narrowed to the width of Bucephalus and had grass growing in the middle (never a good sign in our part of the world). I wouldn’t say it was wet but the only other vehicle approaching Gidleigh was Noah and his Ark and he was already preparing to abandon ship!

Despite everything we pressed on until we finally saw the sign that said “ Gidleigh Park Hotel 0.5 miles Do Not Give Up”! As we rounded the final corner the wonderful Gidleigh Park came in to view, our excitement heightened and my blood pressure receded to manageable levels.

As we walked in to the warm cosy lobby of the hotel we were greeted with a most beautiful smile and all the previous travel difficulties just melted away. Our bags disappeared and we were ushered in to the main sitting room where we slumped in to the comfy settees and ordered, wine, smoked salmon sandwiches and a bowl of sizzling French fries for mother.

Very soon everyone was in their respective happy places. Mrs. C, in between glugging a rather delicious Pinot Noir was doing her daily Wurdle, Kate’s mum and dad were preparing for an afternoon siesta and I was roving around with my Leica SL2 and 90mm Apo Summicron SL.

A cheeky little Pinot Noir to kick-off proceedings.

As I had a captive audience I took the opportunity to take some long overdue portraits of Kate’s mum and dad. I know that they won’t mind me mentioning that Kate’s Dad is now 90 and “Mother” is now 88. Both are in fine fettle and with the 90mm apo, one of Leica’s premier portrait lenses, I was delighted with the imagery I captured. I even managed a capture of camera shy Mrs. C. (She wasn’t happy about it and if pictures could talk I would only be releasing this blog after the watershed!).

Following a delightful lunch we headed up to our rooms. As you can imagine they are super comfortable and inviting. A chilled bottle of fizz, courtesy of the management, was sitting expectantly on the dressing table and a rather fine decanter of Madeira perched in the bay window seemed to be calling out to me. As I sank under the bubbles of a steaming bath all was well in my world.

Normally I only use manual focus lenses as I generally find that copious amounts of alcohol and manual focus lenses are not the best of bed-fellows. Not a problem this time as I had the SL2 and 90mm Apo so I had full autofocus and could indulge both creatively whilst satisfying my “hydration” requirements. Aunty Sarah would have been proud of me.

Suitably fed, “watered” and scrubbed up, I decided it was time for a wander and capture some imagery at 90 mm.

Officianados of wellies just know that Dubarry are the only way to go.

The Dartmoor mist creeping through the trees.

Hand held long exposure - a measure of the SL2’s image stabilization.

The beautiful Mrs. C holding something for the nature pocket.

As you can see Gidleigh really is a delightful place. Did I mention that they also have a Michelin Star restaurant? We were invited to the bar by Col, our Maitre’D for a pre-dinner martini (he mixes a damn good martini does our col). Then on to dinner which comprised the most lovely pieces of poached lobster, in a fish broth that screamed eat me, followed by a loin of venison that was doing a breast-stroke in an unctuous red wine and port sauce, all finished off with a rather generous selection of local cheeses. Then it was in to the lounge for coffee and petit fours. Well I certainly was going to sleep well!

Next morning Col didn’t even need to ask what I wanted for breakfast. A full English duly arrived, but not just any full English, it was given the “Full Gidleigh”. Local sourced pork sausage, smoked bacon, hogs pudding, black pudding, mushroom and fried tomato and a beautifully poached egg, all washed down with a steaming hot coffee. I was set for the day.

So there you are, our haven on the moor. A night of luxury and calories. Ah yes, you thought I had forgotten about the “Bench of Contemplation”. This time I captured Mother…..penny for your thoughts?

I hope you enjoyed joining us for a glimpse of glorious Gidleigh. If you are ever in our part of the world do yourself a favour and just book yourself in for a night and you will sure to be hooked.

Stay tuned for more adventures as Mrs. C and I head out to Dubai in my next blog, “Back to the Desert”.

Meantime love and best wishes from a sunny Plymouth.

Starting The New Year at Home............

February 17, 2025

After the Christmas and New Year festivities our first port of call is Los Alcazares Spain to visit my mum, or as we call her Mudger. January is a very quiet month in Spain, the tourists are nowhere to be seen and whilst there is sun, the mornings and evenings can be quite chilly. None of that matters to me as I love to visit Mudger and our family home, somewhere where I automatically de-stress and relax.

Los Alcazares is an old school sort of place and so from a photographic standpoint I decided to go old school, leave my Leicas at home and give my Fuji Xpro2 and Fuji XF 35mm F1.4 (with 3 stop ND filter) a long overdue outing. I just felt a change from my usual gear and routine might produce a creative spark to start the new year.

Mediterranean life is very simple and for us the most important meal of the day is breakfast. Nothing really moves in Los Alcazares in January before 10.00 a.m. We take the 5 minute drive down to the shores of the Mar Menor to Julian’s, our favourite breakfast destination.

Breakfast is very simple; half a toasted baguette, a drizzle of olive oil, a generous layer of chopped tomato and a sprinkling of salt, all washed down with a steaming hot cortado. I always start the day from my happy place.

This is how I like to drink my morning coffee.

There is nothing better than spending a morning walking along the corniche. I find being by the sea has such a calming influence and creatively there is plenty to keep me busy.

This visit I made a New Year’s resolution to do some exploring during my visit home. Normally everywhere is teeming with tourists but practically having the place to ourselves meant we were pretty much undisturbed.

Our first trip out was to a small mountain village called Aledo, home of the beautiful Aledo Santa Maria Church. We parked in the Centre of the village and walked the 10 minutes to the church. With no tourists the streets were eerily quiet.

Reflecting the historic roots of Spain this beautiful church was originally a mosque but in 1257 became a Christian temple. We stepped inside this beautiful church and we were the only people there. It was serenely beautiful and allowed us a few moments of quiet reflection.

The Castle of Aledo actually encloses the village and was built in the 11th Century. Next to the church is the Homanaje Tower, which forms part of the emblem of the municipality. From the outside it was not exactly photogenic but for a couple of euros I climbed the tower and from the roof the views across the rooftops of Aledo and the surrounding countryside were stunning.

Of course, after all this walking and sightseeing lunch beckoned. So a walk back in to the Centre of town to the only cafe that was open, La Muralla De Aledo. We sat amongst the locals with a cold beer and bocadillo of Iberian ham and tomato. Simple but delicious.

Our other outing was to take the drive to Murcia and then up in to the surrounding mountains to visit the Sanctuary of La Fuensanta. En route we stopped for a quick lunch at La Balsa Redonda Del Valle. We sat in the cool mountain air, sipping cold beer and eating the usual Iberian Ham with Manchego cheese. Nothing like it.

The road through the mountains to the sanctuary is not for the feint of heart and I certainly wouldn’t try it at night. On arrival we were rewarded with spectacular views across Murcia and of course, the beauty of the sanctuary itself.

It is a traditional temple consisting of three naves, a larger central and two sides with chapels. Unfortunately we had enjoyed our lunch a little too much and when we arrived the chapel had just closed. Nevertheless, we spent an hour or so walking around the outside which definitely was a photo rich environment.

Enjoying the highlights whilst embracing the shadows.

It was great fun using my old Xpro2. Still a fantastic camera even though it is 9 years old. It produced great images when I bought it and still delivers great imagery today, especially when paired with the perfectly imperfect original XF35mm F1.4. What a great combo and has certainly ignited my creative juices. If you find this combo on the used market do not hesitate to buy. You will not regret it.

What a fabulous start to our year. Mudger was on top form and as always I left Spain several kilos heavier than when I arrived!

Stay tuned for more creativity in my next Blog as Mrs C and I visit our “Haven on the Moor”.

Regards to all from a sunny but chilly Plymouth.

The author rocking the Santa look for the festive holidays.

New Year Musings........

January 27, 2025

Well, Christmas has been and gone. I can tell from the extra inches on my waistline that we had a great time! Indeed, we had a wonderful Christmas down in good old Plymouth. Despite Plymouth Argyle being bottom of the Championship, Southampton being bottom of the Premier League and the weather doing its best to spoil the party, we Janners are a tough lot and let nothing get in the way of a good party.

As usual it was all about the food and Christmas lunch with Mrs. C’s parents and sister was stellar. A starter of Scottish smoked salmon with lobster pots, followed by a roast lunch of Pork loin with the crispiest of crackling and a stuffed Duck, with the normal 5 veg, all washed down with a crisp white Burgundy and some delightful Fleurie. To finish, some unctuous Sharpham Brie, the smelliest Epoisse I could find and of course, the mandatory Vacherin Mont D’Or, coupled with a few glasses of Tawny Port…What is that Mrs. C, you have my doctor on the phone!

New Year meant the arrival of the kids and their partners.

There is nothing better than having a visit from the young flesh and blood and have everyone that you love sitting around the dinner table at the same time. Admittedly, with our lot, it is like feeding a plague of locusts but keeping to the family motto, we enjoyed good food, good conversation and we were all very jolly and cracked open the Bollie (more than once)!

Maybe, like many families, the challenge on New Years Eve is to actually get to midnight before falling asleep! Well we made it with a rousing chorus of Auld Lang Syne and for me, a few quiet moments to reflect on what has been and what has yet to come.

Sometimes January can bring a creative drought. However, this year I was keen to start 2025 with a flourish and make some bold plans for the coming year. I managed to create some wonderful memories in 2024 with 17 photoblogs, reflecting how busy we were. I am keen to maintain the creative momentum in 2025.

No better way to kick-off the process than to visit somewhere new. So, in the spirit of Carpe Diem we piled in to Bucephalus and made the short drive on to Dartmoor to visit Brent Tor Church, located just outside of the market town of Tavistock.

The weather was very January, with super bright sunlight and a bracing chill in the air. Indeed there was snow on the northern slopes and frost on the south-facing slopes. The ground was crunchy under foot but there was no better weather to help blow away the cobwebs and ignite the creative fires.

We arrived at the small car park at the base of Brent Tor around 10.30 a.m. to find it surprisingly empty, That suited me as I really wanted to have the place to myself.

I had chosen to start the year in full Noctilux mode. Although not known for its prowess as a landscape lens I find the 50 Noctilux F0.95 to be one of those lens that oozes creativity. Wide open is where the magic happens, with that razor thin depth of field and wonderful bokeh and subject separation. Stop it down and you have a very sharp everyday lens.

Now regular followers know that I love my M cameras and their beautifully manufactured manual focused lenses. However, for the Noctilux, by far the best platform is to manually adapt it to the Leica SL2 (or SL3 if you have upgraded). I find it balances beautifully on the SL2 and with that 5.76 million dot EVF and built-in image stabilization the SL2 helps make the Noctilux truly sing.

Of course, I should have brought my tripod and 24-90 L mount lens to fully capture Brent Tor Church and the surrounding countryside in all its winter glory but I was feeling liberated and just wanted to walk around grabbing a few images without all the clutter of too much gear. Perhaps that ought to be one of my New Year resolutions!

Giving Brent Tor Church the “Full Noctilux”.

By the time we had climbed Brent Tor and reached the church and I had gathered the images I wanted, it was clear that the crowds were staring to arrive with a vengeance and upon making it back to the car we found the carpark was full. Memo to me, always make sure you get here before 10.00 a.m. as the light is better and there are fewer people.

The Young People at the top of Brent Tor.

We then had our picnic (of course we had pork product in both natural form and via the obligatory pork pie), before taking the short drive into Tavistock for a stroll around the Pannier Market followed by a warming coffee.

As we were sitting in the coffee shop next to the Pannier Market I managed to capture this image of our beautiful daughter Anna. I think this might be one for the living room wall. A very special year for Anna as she and her partner Matthew have just announced their engagement. I think Matthew’s mother summed up our collective happiness by saying”It simply makes your heart sing with joy”. I am already blubbing and I haven’t even started my wedding speech!

Someone recently asked me how I intended to improve my photography. Crumpets, I didn’t realize it was that bad and I really don’t like to analyze my photography too much; I leave that to others. I prefer to enjoy the process and try to capture the moment and hopefully the end results speak for themselves…….or perhaps not?

Once you enter the world of social media and are brave enough to share your art online, you soon toughen up to those whose mission in life is to be unconstructively negative, and instead engage fully with that wonderful group of inspiring like-minded people who enjoy seeing the world through my lens, albeit with all its flaws. As I always say, you can only fail if you are brave enough to have a go.

However, if further pressed, I would say that I seek to put myself in places and with people, so as to create and record the fondest of memories. Maybe not the technical answer you were expecting but in my humble opinion, once you have great gear and a reasonable understanding and command of the exposure triangle, it should really be about composition and creativity.

I also intend to have a moment of true photographic liberation and make much more use of my wonderful Leica MP film camera. I would like to be detached from cables, devoid of lithium batteries and simple load up with Ilford Delta 400 and let it all hang out (metaphorically speaking)….sounds like a plan to me!

I even have no plans for buying any new gear (As I write this I have my fingers crossed and can hear Mrs. C saying that she has heard that old chestnut before, accompanied by a sigh of relief from my bank manager!). However, I really am blessed with some wonderful gear and I have no excuses for not getting out there and getting on with it.

On that note Q1 is already planned. We are off to Spain to visit my Mum in January, followed by a real treat as we visit the wonderful Gidleigh Park as a belated Christmas present to ourselves. February involves a visit to Dubai for some work and to see old friends. We are also excited to have our dear friends Jon and Rachel visiting us in Plymouth for the first time and then in March, a truly creative extravaganza is planned in Andalucia Spain…..hold that thought!

Finally, I believe everyone has a book in them and I am determined that this should be my ultimate creative project for 2025, or at least to formally start the process. I want to create an E-Book but I seem to be letting the technical challenge get in the way of the creative process. I keep stumbling on deciding what is the best software or platform to use so that I can easily combine prose and imagery? I feel that it should be about the content, not the form and technology. Perhaps that’s just me procrastinating but if anyone has some helpful ideas or solutions please let me know in the comments section.

So, it would seem that a plan for 2025 is already coming together and I hope to see you soon in my next blog, ”Starting the New Year At Home “ as Mrs. C and I travel out to Spain and start the year with a visit to my dear old mum.

Ah yes, “The Bench of Contemplation”. I captured this image of Matthew on a bench next to Brent Tor Church.

Matthew on the “Bench of Contemplation”.

So enough of my ramblings and musings and let us all hope for good health, good light and a creative 2025.

With warmest regards from Plymouth U.K.

Dziękuję Warszawa............

December 9, 2024

Well dear friends, Christmas is almost upon us and for La Famille Chivers, this means our annual pilgrimage to one of the european Christmas markets.

This year our choice was Warsaw, which provided us with a number of firsts to celebrate:

This would be our first ever visit to Poland.
This would be the first time that all les jeunes Chivers, plus their respective partners, would be joining us.
Most of all It would be our first opportunity to celebrate the wonderful news that our daughter Anna and her fiancée Matthew had formally announced their engagement.

It was also an opportunity to meet up with our “Dubai family”, Seth, Claire and their three boys, Raif, Atticus and Horatio.

For Mrs. C and me, the holiday started at the Thistle Hotel Heathrow. The family gathered in the bar the night before in order to start the trip with a few glasses to toast Anna and Matthew on their engagement and to also enjoy a family meal.

Also, the next morning we would all jump in to one of their driverless pods and be delivered to Heathrow Terminal 5.

Cheers for Chivers! - I am never happier than when we are all together.

The next morning everyone met in reception at 6.00 a.m. Remarkably, considering how much alcohol had been consumed the night before, there were no hangovers and we made our way across to Terminal 5. I have to say that the driverless pod (a sort of monorail) was perfect and completely took the stress out of wondering whether taxis would arrive on time.

Fortunately the planets aligned, as did British Airways and Emirates Airlines, and 2.5 hours later we were all meeting up in arrivals at Warsaw’s Chopin International Airport. The Chappels arrived at approximately the same time and when we met up there was much hugging and kissing, two black Mercedes people carriers whisked us in to the centre of Warsaw and we checked in to the Sofitel Warsaw.

Our home for the weekend - The Sofitel Warsaw with the Palace of Culture and Science in the distance.

Mrs. C and Claire then set about check-in and after some intense negotiation that made Brexit look like a walkover we all walked away with room upgrades and Mrs. C used her Sofitel membership to obtain free welcome drinks for all.

So after a rapid check-in we all headed for the bar to enjoy our welcome beverage. As I walked up to the bar I smiled at the barman and used my only polish phrase,”Cześć, mójjest duży”, which roughly translates to “hi, mine’s a large one”. Our barman was clearly a bi-lingual comedian and he responded in perfect English by saying “so was his, but in the meantime would I like a drink!”?

I gave our barman one of Mrs. C’s 1000 yard stares and then whipped out my clincher; no that’s not a euphemism, but our complimentary drinks card. He again smiled and said we could have anything we wanted. I was not about to fall for that old chestnut as I could already hear Chipmunk asking if there was any Bollinger and Anna was perusing the drinks menu in search of the infamous and incredibly expensive yuzu saké. I knew that once team Chivers learned that free drinks were on offer, carnage would ensue. So, I called his bluff, ordered six glasses of champagne, a negroni and a cosmopolitan and crossed my fingers. Sure enough, five minutes later our drinks arrived and no bill was tendered. Well done Mrs, C our trip in Warsaw had formally started.

Chivers Family Motto: “Be Jolly & Crack Open The Bolly”.

Before going any further I do need to provide some additional information and clarifications:

Even though my French is not bad and my German is vaguely comprehendible, Polish is just about impossible. With so many Z’s, J’s, W’s and C’s in every sentence Polish scrabble must be a very high scoring game. So google translate was clearly going to be the order of the day.
Due to its geography, daylight hours in Poland in December seem short as it is dark by 3.30 p.m. So, if you are visiting at this time of year an early breakfast is advisable.
The currency is the Zloty and there are about 5 Sloty’s to the pound. Most establishments welcome the use of debit and credit cards and I must say that even Warsaw, as a capital city, appeared to be very good value.
Surprisingly, the weather was nowhere near as cold as last year’s visit to Prague. However, there was no sun and a constant greyness hung over the city. Notwithstanding, a hat, gloves and a warm coat are essential as late afternoon the temperature seem to drop rapidly.
Mrs. C had decided to fully embrace the polish culture on this trip and was only answering to her Polish pseudonym “Minka”. (Please google BBC Radio 4 sitcom Hut 33 to understand more).
From a photographic perspective the light was extremely flat and posed a challenge. I had travelled with the Leica Q Type 116 which always copes well in low light, is an easy carry and with a three year old whizzing around the place, auto-focus is definitely a plus.

I have to say that I love to be pleasantly surprised and indeed Warsaw pleasantly surprised me. Town appeared very clean and organised and our hotel was located just 5 minutes from the Old Town and was also situated opposite Saxon Square, the largest city square in Warsaw, which also contains the tomb Of The Unknown Soldier.

Although darkness was closing in we decided to walk-off the champagne and headed off along Nowy Świat and came across Minka’s all-time favourite shop, “Tchibo”. Minka was “In like Flynn” and when then young people realized there was a cafe so were they.

Of course the lady serving the coffees did not speak English and unlike our hotel barman was also not a bi-lingual comedian, especially when I told her that mine’s a large one!

After some rather painful sign language, shouty english and use of google translate, 11 drinks were ordered and Minka was able to indulge herself and our family in her native environment.

I did manage a Tchibo portrait of my beautiful Anna.

By the time we had finished coffee it was dark and we wondered our way back to the hotel. Given that daytime light was grey and very flat, it was the night that really brought Warsaw alive:

The next morning we woke early and when I pulled back the curtains we had a full view of Saxon Square. We could see a military parade and so we went to investigate. It appears that every morning there is a flag ceremony and the changing of the guard at the Tomb Of The Unknown Soldier.

Our destination for the day was the Christmas Market and so we headed off along Krskowskie Przedmiescie.

It then dawned on me that the reason everything was so neat and tidy was that the old town was painstakingly rebuilt after being ravaged during WW2.

We eventually found the Christmas market which was actually divided in to two locations. What appeared to be the main market was in fact a collection of food stalls and was a little disappointing. However, running along a portion of the city walls was a row of stalls with all manner of arts and crafts. Our only disappointment was that they were not switching on the Christmas lights until 6th December so we were a week early!

Christmas market - As the light faded the market became busier.

Now when in Eastern Europe a firm favorite for any walkabout is to locate a shop selling chimney cake. Think sugar, cake, hot and steamy oh and did I mention sugar!?. What is not to like. Claire was on it and soon, enough chimney cake was procured to sink a battleship. Everyone was in their happy place.

Claire is on it - Chimney cake please and we will have one of every flavour.

Yet another successful visit to a christmas market.

The temperature is falling and talk is of hot coffee and more sugar!

After a good walk around Christmas markets and overdosing on chimney cake, caffeine seemed the order of the day. We located a local cafe that could accommodate eleven, the young people did what young people do and chilled out and I went off with my single Polish phrase to order the drinks and some food. This time my Polish was not needed as the cafe was staffed with delightful young students who all spoke perfect English….phew!

For once this visit was not about documenting our cultural activities, it was about sharing precious moments with the people we love.

The glow of someone very much in love - to quote Matthew’s mother, it makes our heart sing with joy.

What a beautiful ring - well done Matthew.

Minka giving her future son-in-law some helpful advice! As I always say, after 37 years of marriage I am one of the wisest people I know!

Everyone appears to be in their happy place.

Our advisor on all matters equestrian and Chipmunk’s lovely partner Kitty, flying the flag for Racing Post Bloodstock.

In amongst all the eating and drinking we did manage a cultural visit to one of Warsaw’s landmarks, The Palac Kultury i Nauru (The Palace of Culture & Science).

At a height of 237 metres it is the second tallest building in both Warsaw & Poland. The building was completed in 1955 in what may be described as the Stalinist architectural style.

The building houses various public and cultural institutions. The entry fee was 20 Zlotys per person and you take the lift to the 30th Floor, where there is an observation platform which provides the best views of Warsaw.

Definitely in the Stalinist architectural style.

Up to the 30th floor for the observation platform.

Someone travelled a long way to seal their love for each other.

So that was our Warsaw adventure and a final opportunity to capture some images of the people we love.

Well dear Friends, I think that brings 2024 to a close. Mrs. C and I would like to thank all those who have followed our many adventures over the past year. Your support, comments and encouragement really does mean a lot to us.

Ah yes, you thought I had forgotten about the final bench of contemplation for 2024.

Minka on The Tchibo Bench of Contemplation.

May we wish you all a very Happy Christmas and let us all look forward to a peaceful and more tolerant 2025.

With love and best wishes from Plymouth U.K.

Adios & Away..........

November 10, 2024

Well for all those who have followed all the recent blogs relating to our trip across “The Pond” and our adventures across Louisiana and Texas, I hope you have enjoyed them, I thank you for your support and I admire your stamina!

However, we are not quite finished. As we arrived at breakfast on our final day, enjoyed one last cup of Rachel’s excellent coffee and loaded everything into the back of the car, Rachel confirmed that before our drive to the airport, they had one last surprise for us. A visit to Buffalo Park and the incredible Cistern.

Built in 1926, this underground cistern was used for decades to hold a large portion of Houston’s public drinking water.

I have visited a similar cistern, the Basilica Cistern, located in Istanbul Turkey, so I knew we had a real treat in store. My only concern was how I might record it in near total darkness.

Back in the day the cistern apparently sprang an irreparable leak, the reservoir was drained and according to history it sat unused and was practically forgotten about.

However, since 2010, it has now been revived and houses a number of rotating art installations from artists who make the space their own with both light and sound pieces.

Interesting facts about the cistern:

It is 87,500 square feet or the size of 1.5 football pitches.
It is 221-225 feet tall - its slender columns span the entire space.
When at full functioning capacity it held 15 million gallons of water.
There is a 17 second echo.

During our tour the cistern featured Rossin’s Haha Real, a work which takes its inspiration from the classic children’s story, The Velveteen Rabbit, invoking themes of transformation and loss.

This wonderful cistern still has a pool of water at the bottom and the stillness provides the most beautiful reflections.

The lights of the light show really bring the cistern to life.

Incredibly difficult to capture the light show which goes from total darkness to high intensity in an instant.

I can’t believe the low light performance of the Leica Type 246 Monochrom.

The tour only lasts about 30 minutes but is really thought provoking. For me it provided the ultimate challenge for hand-held low-light photography. The Leica Type 246 was astonishing in its dynamic range and clarity of imagery under such challenging conditions. Also, my photographic skills might also be improving!

After the tour we had an opportunity to walk around Buffalo Park and to capture some of Houston’s downtown skyline.

As we walked around the park and on to a bridge overlooking down town Houston, Rachel told us about the floods after Hurricane Harvey. Downtown was devastated, along with the suburbs where Jon and Rachel lived. In the image below you will see a bridge. Apparently, at the height of the flood, the water level covered the bridge!!

Buffalo Bayou with downtown Houston in the background.

Our final lunch was at a restaurant called Tiny Boxwoods. Casual sophistication amongst the trees and greenery in an area of Houston called Bryker Woods. JW ordered a delicious bottle of chilled Prosecco and my lunch was the house salad with a mouth watering apple vinaigrette.

It was such a relaxing lunch as we reminisced and laughed about the adventures of our previous two weeks in Texas and Louisiana. You know there is nothing better than sharing food and wine with great friends.

The girls in Prosecco mode - apologies for the lapse in manual focus…..alcohol and manual focus do not mix!

The boys….A bottle in and firmly in their happy place.

You know there is something special about having had an expatriate life. You see the world differently and tend to make a few very dear friends who become friends for life. JW and Rachel fall in to that bracket.

As neighbours in Dubai they were great company and always there if we needed help. We shared many an evening over good food and a bottle of red and some Armenian brandy.

As with all friends for life, whenever you get together, no matter how long it has been, you carry on directly from where you left off the last time you were together.

Thanks to both Rachel and JW for a truly magnificent experience. We look forward to round 2 when we have the opportunity to show them the delights of the south west of the U.K.

As I finish writing this blog the U.S. election has finished, democracy reared its head and it appears that world of U.S. politics has potentially changed for ever. I am unsure whether it is for the best but you know my thoughts about protest votes….people get what they wished for and then regret it when the reality dawns.

I do not know what is in store for us all but lets hope that at the end of it all, there is a realisation that we are all better together than trying to create divisions and conflict.

Love and best wishes to you all and please, lets try and move forward in the coming months with peace and tolerance.

So signing off from Houston and see y’all soon back in good old Blighty!

Ragin’ Cajuns...........

November 8, 2024

When I left you in my last blog, “Plantation Road”, we were discussing alligator balls! Well next morning, as we pulled out of Lafayette, things were about to get even spicier! Rachel said that she had another surprise for us and that we were going to Avery Island, to see how Tabasco is made.

Now I have to admit I was a little unsure about why we were visiting a factory that made tabasco sauce, but how wrong could I have been! Indeed, it turned out to be one of the best days of our entire holiday.

The drive was relatively short, about an hour outside of Lafayette. The light was great and some of the buildings alongside the road just screamed to be captured.

Old School and perfect for monochrome photography.

Welcome to Avery Island, the home of Tabasco.

For those of us who like a little bit of spice in our life, “Tabasco Sauce”, that famous little red bottle that everyone has in their spice rack, has become a household name. Indeed, the salt dome known as Avery Island Louisiana, or better known as the “source of Tabasco sauce”, has been operated by the Mcilhenny family for over 5 generations and is the only factory in the world that makes this famous sauce under the Tabasco brand.

I was expecting some form of major industrial site but boy was I wrong. The factory looks picture perfect, sitting amongst the bayous and wildlife and I was soon out of the car and clicking away with the Type 246 and 28mm Elmarit. The light was super bright and so a 4 stop ND filter was a must.

Now Rachel and Jon had organised the day in three parts; (a) a tour of the Tabasco museum, (b) lunch at the on-site restaurant and (c) a tour of the Jungle gardens.

Wherever I go the wildlife is out to get me!

The modern side to this traditional family business.

The greenhouses where they experiment with different types of chilli peppers.

The elixir that is Tabasco sauce aged in white oak barrels which are sealed with salt.

A contender for The Bench of Contemplation perhaps?

The factory is surrounded by stunningly beautiful nature and wildlife.

By now we had worked up a thirst and were in urgent need of some calories. The on-site restaurant was the perfect place for a beer and a crawfish poboy. This is basically a whole baton loaf, about half a ton of deep-fried crawfish and a double helping of French fires, spiced up, of course, with locally manufactured “family reserve” Tabasco Sauce. This is definitely not for the faint of heart and sharing is very much recommended.

Cholesterol and calories, a perfect combination!

We rolled out of the restaurant (quite literally), jumped into the car and headed off for the “jungle tour” around Avery Island. As we pulled into the garden my jaw hit the floor. The whole area was just un-spoilt nature and I was in seventh heaven.

My first image of the tour was a keeper.

I just love the Spanish Moss which seems to flourish everywhere.

If you look closely you can see three turtles on the branch stretching across the lake - otherwise known as alligator food.

Wherever we looked it got better and better.

Anyone for a swim? - before you do, look closely at the 8 foot eating machine waiting patiently for you.

As we reached the Texas / Louisiana state line we pulled over for a “comfort break”. Once again nature was out to get me.

All I want is to take a pee without any stress!

This is what was behind the ablutionary facilities - “Snake Central”!

What a fabulous day. A visit to Avery Island should be on every tourist’s list when you visit Louisiana. I must have taken about 500 images and culling them down to the few that I have shown you was very hard work.

Ah yes, the Bench of Contemplation. Mrs C sitting on the edge of this stone bridge in the middle of this picturesque bayou, contemplating the fact that all around her were alligators, snakes and a myriad of other creatures looking to bite and sting you. An excellent juxtaposition I think.

I hope you enjoyed this spicy episode and I look forward to inviting you to my final blog, “Adios & Away” which will be coming out soon.

See Y’all.

Plantation Drive..........

November 4, 2024

After our brief time in New Orleans (see my previous Blog “NOLA”), we were determined to see more of Louisiana, as we slowly made our way back to Houston.

Our eventual destination for the next evening would be Lafayette but along the way, we headed alongside the Mississippi so as to get a feel for old school Louisiana.

As you turn off the highway and start to drive along roads lined with sugar cane plantations, it is like stepping back in time.

Something that struck me were the Oak trees draped in Spanish Moss. I could imagine standing in the same spot 100 years ago and it would not have looked any different.

I find these oaks dripping with moss quite stunning.

Of course, behind the dramatic scenery and the beauty of the surroundings there is a much darker side. I am not in favour of cancelling out the failings of man and / or re-writing the history books. So many wrongs occurred to get where we are today. The current generation need to see these with clarity so as to be reminded that they should never be repeated.

There is no starker reminder of this than the beautiful plantation houses that line the road. They truly are something to behold and a reminder of the wealth that was generated in this part of the world by the toil of those less fortunate.

The images below show the beautiful St. Joseph Plantation in all its glory and the juxtaposition which is the accommodation of the labourers who toiled on the land and who were responsible for generating the wealth of the plantation owners. This is a vivid reminder that all countries have a dark and murky past. Rather than try and cancel them out, let us make sure we inform and educate the youth of today so that we perhaps treat our fellow man with more respect, kindness and understanding. Who knows what we might achieve if this were possible.

As we continued along the side of the Mississippi we came across this wonderful driveway with a canopy of oaks. Rachel pulled over and we both jumped out of the car to capture the scene. For me this was the image of the trip and I loved the fact that we managed to capture an oncoming lorry at the very end of the drive.

“Plantation Drive” - my favourite image of the entire trip.

I love the geometry of the bridges crossing the Mississippi.

Railway crossing - don’t forget to look in both directions!

After our trip along the Mississippi we headed across a railway line and onwards to a small town call New Iberia. Our destination was to visit the Conrad Rice Mill, America’s oldest independently owned operating rice mill, having remained in operation since 1912. It sells its products under the Konriko brand.

Unfortunately we had arrived too late for the tour of the mill but we were warmly welcomed in to the mill shop.

The lady who welcomed us said they they had just cooked some of their wild pecan rice and we were welcome to try some. It was so delicious I nearly ate the whole pot!

We then moved on in to the centre of New Iberia. Once again, if you blinked you would have travelled the length of Main Street. The quant little town was founded in the late 18th century by French, Spanish and Arcadian settlers.

The girls fancied an afternoon ice cream and so we parked opposite a family owned bakery and dessert store called “Fudge It Bakery”.

The door was locked but there was a very polite sign that said “please knock”….so I did. A charming elderly lady nervously answered the door. In my best English accent I said “Dear lady, would I be correct in assuming that you are a purveyor of delicious ice cream?”. She smiled, let us in and said that she assumed we were not from around these parts.

She was correct and when we told her we were from UK she said that we were the first real life English folk that she had ever seen.

Having formally been anointed as a first, we ordered some of their delicious ice cream and I took an image of the lady and her niece as the first real life residents of New Iberia that I had ever met. Such charming and welcoming people.

Everything in this wonderful store was home made and looked and smelled delicious.

After our delicious interlude we walked along the back streets to the nearby river which gave me an opportunity to grab a few images of New Iberia.

What another wonderful day we had going off-piste and exploring places that perhaps the average tourist might not see. That’s the benefit of having such a wonderful tour guide.

We left New Iberia as we found it, peaceful and content and headed on to Lafayette. That evening we dined at a local restaurant, Bon Temps Grill, sampled the local brew and I had my first taste of “alligator balls”. So there is a thought on which to end this blog!

More adventures to follow so stay tuned as we go “Rajin Cajuns”.

See Y’all again soon.

NOLA...........

October 27, 2024

For those of you who have been following our trip across the pond on QM2 and our Texas adventure with Rachel and J Doubleyuh (JW), you will know that Mrs. C and I have been having a holiday of a lifetime. Thanks must really go to the two girls, Mrs. C for organizing the Cunard adventure and to Rachel for all things U.S. based.

Following a re-group from the attack by killer ducks (see recent blog “The Devil’s Backbone”) and a rest-stop back at home in Houston, we set-off early one morning for the next stage in our U.S. extravaganza, a drive in to Louisiana and a couple of days in New Orleans.

Now everybody has to cross the great Mississippi River for the first time and I wanted to capture it my way. So I managed this image through the windscreen.

As always Rachel had a surprise up her proverbial sleeve and as we crossed in to Louisiana we pulled off the highway in to a rest-stop situated next to a Bayou.

You guessed it - We are in gator country.

Yes it looks cute but mama gator definitely doesn’t.

I was chatting with one of the locals and he said we could catch one of the baby gators and keep it in an aquarium if we liked?! Bearing in mind that mama gator was about eight feet long and had teeth like a chain saw and was swimming in the centre of the bayou, i decided to avoid climbing over the safety barrier, defer my death wish and stick with goldfish in my aquarium.

After my first brush with the bayou, we carried on towards New Orleans.

Upon arrival in New Orleans we checked in to our hotel, the Four Points By Sheraton which was located directly on the famous Bourbon Street in New Orlean’s famous French Quarter.

The interior courtyard - tranquility - I see a cocktail with my name on it.

As we exited our hotel on to Bourbon Street, I experienced what can only be described as a sensory overload. The noise was incredible, people were dancing and singing and at 2.30pm in the afternoon it would appear that the sun was definitely over this particular yardarm.

Now I had been quite worried about taking my Leica gear around New Orleans and so I had decided to brave it, but had bought an accessory to fit on to the tripod mount on the bottom of the Leica Type 246 that allowed me to insert an Apple Tag. Quite ingenious and gave me some comfort at least.

Even colonel Sanders was there to greet us.

Do you think they are about to celebrate halloween?

That evening we hit the road and ended up in Lafitte’s Blacksmiths Shop Bar where we participated in a few pre-dinner sharpeners.

Lafitte’s - A great place for a pre-dinner sharpener.

Once the sun went down it seemed like everybody else came out to play and the whole place went nuts.

Now the pre-dinner drinks were flowing a little too rapidly so we decided to search out some sustenance. As we were determined to sample some of the local cuisine we headed directly to The Gumbo Shop for some genuine creole cuisine.

You know exactly what you will get at the Gumbo shop on St. Peter Street.

This place was old school New Orleans and gumbo was definitely the order of the day. I had the chicken gumbo and Kate had the fish gumbo. Simply delicious, especially when accompanied by a couple of sazerak cocktails.

Our waiter was a cool dude and had everything under control.

Old school, no frills, just great food and a mean cocktail.

What a start to our New Orleans adventure. We returned to our hotel around midnight and it seemed that the party along Bourbon Street was only just getting started.

Rachel was ahead of the game and had arranged for our rooms to be facing the internal courtyard so there was no noise and we slept like babies.

The next morning we were up early and out searching for breakfast. Last night’s party had finally ended and the streets were eerily quiet.

Just loving the look of the French Quarter in the morning light.

So for our first morning in New Orleans we needed a proper breakfast and this meant hot Beignets. There is no better place than the Café Du Monde on Decatur Street. No fuss here, just hot coffee and warm beignets smothered in sugar.

Do you think they add enough sugar on the Beignets?

Whilst we were noshing through our high energy breakfast a group of musicians were blasting out their rendition of Minnie The Moocher. After finishing the tune they went round with a bucket asking for donations. The guy with the trombone said with a wry smile, “Your generous donation keeps us from the poorhouse and stops us visiting your house!”. They were extremely good value and entertaining. I gave them a couple of bucks and they were happy to pose for a portrait.

A donation keeps us from the poorhouse and stops us visiting your house!

After breakfast the light was great and I managed the following image of the St. Louis Cathedral.

As I framed the image and took the shot I saw a menacing looking chap out of the corner of my eye who seemed to be taking issue with me taking his picture (which I wasn’t and would never do without asking) and was liking me to a proverbial “posterior orifice”. Rather than engaging with the “gentleman” and questioning his lineage, I reckoned that like many New Orleans locals who had come across hard times, that he was looking for a confrontation in an attempt to take a few dollars off me. So I de-escalated the situation and moved on, especially as half the population are armed to the teeth.

We then wandered down to the banks of the Mississippi and grabbed a few images in the early morning light.

As we walked back into town we came across a Mecca for local jazz, The Toulouse Theatre and Preservation Hall. Definitely a night time destination and one for our next visit.

I grabbed a couple of images and went off down the road humming my favorite blues tune, “Fast Women Sloe Gin” by the late great Jimmy Witherspoon.

We were keen to spend some time away from Bourbon Street and decided to take one of the old trams in to the Garden District. This is one of the posh suburbs of New Orleans and showed another side to this wonderful city. Tickets were 80 cents each which in my book were a bargain.

As our tram gently made its way through the Garden District we finally came to our lunch destination, The Camellia Grill, which had been highly recommended by one of Rachel’s buddies.

We were welcomed inside by our host, Vincent, who had worked in the Camellia Grill for nearly 40 years. With his super smile and gentle voice he was in complete control and we had a most enjoyable lunch.

After lunch we decided to take advantage of the beautiful temperature, burn off some calories and walk to the end of the line.

The Garden district is everything it promises to be.

Beautiful Houses but at a considerable price.

I was not about to pull the pin and try a hand grenade.

All this walking and sightseeing had made the girls thirsty and they dragged JW and me in to a local bar for an afternoon livener.

This was a serious bar and very well-stocked….they even had Plymouth Gin!

JW and I ordered a couple of local beers but the girls went off-piste and ordered two gin fizzes. To my surprise Christian, our barman looked at Mrs. C and said “Really!”. Oh dear, oh dear oh dear. I could see Mrs. C’s lips tighten in the way they they do just before she puts her foot on my neck and she gave Christian one of her legendary shrivellers (basically a thousand yard stare which normally ends in violence) and she said, “Yes Really”! Christian shrugged, smiled and said it would take 10 minutes. The challenge was on. JW and I weren’t bothered as we were already quietly supping on our beers and keeping well out of it.

Christian then disappeared for five minutes and returned with two glassed of yellowish liquid that he then placed in the fridge. After taking them out of the fridge he made two holes in the liquid and then poured more liquid in to the holes, with the liquid rising like a perfectly cooked soufflé.

Its called style! - The master and his magic.

The girls assured us that their drinks were fantastic and everyone was left smiling as our barman worked his magic.

A work of art which left everyone smiling.

As the sun goes lower Bourbon Street starts to come to life again.

For our final evening JW had booked dinner at a super little restaurant called Palm & Pine on North Rampart Street. As we walked to the restaurant the atmospherics were sensational and the sunset something to behold. I have enclosed a colour picture taken with my iPhone and completely un-edited, other than a slight crop, to show the magnificent colours, bearing in mind that at the same time Florida and North Carolina were being devastated by a Hurricane.

Pal & Pine - a fabulous end to our New Orleans experience.

The next morning we checked out and as we headed out of the garage I couldn’t resist this last image which is my New Orleans Bench of Contemplation.

Well there you have it. New Orleans is a must visit for anyone passing through Louisiana. We had such a wonderful time yet I feel we only scratched the surface. All the more reason to come back again!

As we hit the interstate why not join Mrs. C and me in our next blog, “Plantation Road” which will be coming soon.

See Y’all.

The Devil's Backbone............

October 26, 2024

Having eaten our body weight in ice cream at Blue Bell, (see previous Blog “Goin Down South”) we hauled out of Brenham with Rachel at the reins and JW riding shotgun. We headed on past Austin (at this point of writing the blog and to get in the mood I have The Sky is Crying by Stevie Ray Vaughan playing on the IPOD) to our next destination, a little town called Fredericksburg.

Now Fredericksburg, as the name may suggest, was founded by German immigrants back in 1846 under the Society for the Protection of German Immigrants in Texas. The name was chosen to honor Prince Frederick of Prussia. Today the town remains quite small, with a population of around 12,000 but still retains its Germanic roots.

Rachel had booked us in to a wonderful cottage that screamed old school from the outside but was beautifully furnished inside.

We were located in a quiet suburb some 10 minutes from the centre of town ( in fact everything in Fredericksburg seemed to be located about 10 minutes from the centre of town).

As soon as I saw it I was in my happy place. I wandered around the “Hood” taking in the surroundings and enjoying the light and shadows.

Embracing the shadows in our rear garden.

As usual I became completely absorbed in my surroundings and very soon was completely lost and it was starting to get very warm.

Ominously there were many vultures soaring above me (I seemed to attract vultures throughout my stay in Texas) so perhaps they sensed the chance of a tasty piece of English beef for lunch!

Ah Berry Street & Green…..Means nothing and I am still hopelessly lost.

Whilst in the U.S. I have had a fascination with fire hydrants, windmills and post boxes; I guess because we don’t have these in the UK. Eventually I spotted a landmark I remembered and made it back to base.

Now who doesn’t enjoy a glass of wine? Well my mate JW was on it and had selected a local Frebericksburg vineyard, “William Chris Vineyards” so that we could sample first hand the development of wine making in this part of Texas. Indeed JW and I were keen to make the sacrifice and lend our taste buds to fully assist them with their wine making endeavours.

The vineyard was in beautiful countryside some 30 minutes outside of Fredericksburg and upon arrival we registered and were immediately offered a welcoming “sharpener”, a delightful little chilled Rosé that I necked far too quickly. My taste buds were tingling and I was on a roll and keen to sample more.

A welcoming sharpener to kick-off proceedings.

Well they have won plenty of awards so all bodes well.

Next was a rather tasty number, a very pretty nose with a rather pleasing complexion. Her name was Kim and she would be our guide for the wine tasting!

All in all we tasted six wines, 2 Rosé and the remainder red. The grape varieties ranged between Sirah, Grenache an Mourvèdre.

To be frank I quite liked the 2 Rosé varieties and I thought both would work equally on their own as a drinking wine or to accompany food, although we all struggled with the reds. The reds all seemed quite dry and were served supposedly at cellar temperature but for me, they were too chilled and would have benefitted from being allowed to warm to room temperature and then being served from a decanter.

I suspect that if we lived nearby and with sufficient practice, we would learn to appreciate their particular style of wine making. Indeed, JW did take a bottle of the 2020 Grenache and it will be interesting to know how it tastes when served a little warmer and with more aeration.

After the tasting we were allowed to wander around the vineyard which gave me an opportunity to capture a few images.

Oh yes, there is definitely enough to go around.

Getting up close and personal with the vines.

What a great morning. We had learned something about Texas wine production and whilst a Californian Pinot Noir it is not, they are well on their way to putting their own original stamp on Texas wine production.

Unlike everyone else and in the tradition of the Chivers family, during the tasting I didn’t spit out a drop and as a result I was feeling in a very relaxed mood and was having a bit of trouble using manual focus.

So we decided to head back in to town for a spot of lunch and a black coffee and perhaps some retail therapy. On the way back I set the Type 246 to range focussing and took an opportunity to grab some imagery out of the rear window or our car..

Indeed many people are praying for a calmer outcome to the pending U.S. elections. At the time of writing its neck and neck between Harris and Trump.

At the traffic lights I snapped this shot of “Doug The Pug” who seemed quite happy to pose for me.

The back window of the truck says Jesus or Hell! I am hoping there is somewhere in-between.

The good thing about Fredericksburg is that there is no shortage of places to eat. Mrs. C and I only managed to stay in the same size wardrobe by sharing everything as portions of both food and drink seemed huge.

Yup, the Hitchin’ Post sounds like my kinda place.

One particular store caught my eye, “Rustin Robs”, which specialized in all manner of hot sauces. Indeed, some are so hot that there is an age restriction whereby you have to show you are over the age of 18 before you are allowed to buy.

Outside nearly all the shops had signs stating that the open carry of dangerous weapons was not permitted inside. Good job I kept my automatic lip salve in my man bag then!

Our final stop-off after an afternoon of shopping was to a wine store owned and operated by Ferris & Fletch, another local wine producer. As we walked through the door we were greeted by Kevin, a most hospitable and gracious host. Kevin is my kind of guy and as we were shaking his hand he was already pouring us glasses of wine to taste.

After a couple of glasses of their fabulous Pinot Noir JW bought a few bottles for his cellar, Kevin was happy to pose for a picture and I was ready to go home for a much needed afternoon siesta.

What a great host - Kevin at Ferris & Fletch Wine Co.

Both evenings during our stay the temperature was perfect and we were able to sit outside at local restaurants, enjoy a wine or cold beer and sample the local fare. What a great place to visit and if you have a chance to spend a couple of days in Fredericksburg don’t hesitate. Also be sure to visit Kevin at Ferris & Fletch!

The next morning we hauled out of Fredericksburg, took the “Devils Backbone” down past a little town called Purgatory and headed for a place called Bastrop. I simply love these place names and it makes we want to take out my guitar, raise the action, tune to drop D and play some good old Texas slide guitar.

Again, this small town only had a population of about 9,000, a Main Street and plenty of places to eat and drink.

It is also famous for the number of buildings listed in the National Register of Historic Places, resulting in Bastrop earning the title “Most Historic Small Town in Texas”.

Old School - I just love the look of these cabins on the outskirts of Bastrop.

Got a keeper as soon as I got out of the car.

You can’t take a drink inside as alcohol kills but guns are fine.

On the street with the Type 246 and 28mm Elmarit.

Now Rachel and JW have a knack for finding great places to eat and drink and Bastrop was to be no exception to that rule.

Maxine’s Cafe & Bakery is well known in these parts for serving excellent food.

Inside everything is old school Texas and the place was absolutely humming with people.

Should I have the Catfish or the Fried Green Tomatoes with Ranch Dressing?

For me the dish of the day was a starter of fried green tomatoes smothered with their speciality ranch dressing. Simply superb and not to be missed.

Suitably fed and watered we decided to walk around town which provided me with the opportunity to grab a few more images.

No afternoon in Bastrop would be complete without stopping off at Lock Drug Store. No longer a drug store (a.k.a. pharmacy) but this building, which dates back to 1855 is a fantastic ice cream parlor / bakery.

The ice cream was wonderful (yes it came from our old friend Blue Bell Creameries) and the girls running the place were super chatty and welcoming.

Now as you know Texas is all about “Big Oil” and I had been going on to Rachel about wanting to photograph the old-school “Nodding Donkey” oil pump. So to my astonishment on the way back to Houston we pulled off the interstate, down a dirt road and there it was, a genuine nodding donkey.

I was ecstatic and then, to my complete surprise, an actual donkey appeared in the field with the nodding donkey. You just can’t make this up.

Now you will recall that I seemed to be being stalked by vultures. Just 5 minutes from Rachel and JW’s house in Houston is a small park which is full of, yes you have guessed it, vultures! Well I had to grab a shot as Rachel had assured me that vultures were only interested in eating dead things.

Indeed, as I got closer and closer to grab an image the vultures totally ignored me. However, I was being chased by an angry flock of ducks. Rachel did join me to lend some support and watch my back. She then said don’t look up, so of course I looked up. I was being surveyed by a whole tree full of vultures!

Ah but what about the Bench of Contemplation. Well this image of Mrs. C sitting on the porch of our cabin in the outskirts of Fredericksburg is my choice.

I hope you have enjoyed this look at parts of Texas that the average tourist might not necessarily see. Stay tuned for more adventures as we head for Louisiana and New Orleans in my next blog, NOLA,

See Y’all soon.

Goin Down South.........

October 20, 2024

Well dear reader, I ended the last blog, “A Week with Mary” as we left Queen Mary 2 and boarded a Cunard shuttle bound for Newark Airport in New Jersey.

I guess we could have taken a taxi but Cunard had done a wonderful job so far so we closed our eyes, paid the money (USD 120) and sat back and relaxed as we were duly delivered to Newark Airport, Terminal A with our usual 8 hours to spare, just in case we missed the flight. As I reminded Mrs. C the early bird always catches the first worm!

Now US domestic airports are a bit like catching a bus so we were expecting no frills and Newark Airport ensured that we were not disappointed. Going through security was a breeze until we were invited to check in our fire arms! Hmmmm, I did have some lip moisturiser which was the nearest thing I had to an offensive weapon other than my camera gear.

Once security saw my beautiful Leica Type 246 and associated lenses I almost caused the presence of a SWAT Team. Everything had to come out of my back-pack and be inspected. It would have been far easier to check in an assault rifle.

As I went through the body scanner all seemed fine until security cried out “halt, do not move, take off the bandana”! This I where I realised that the UK and USA are nations separated by a common language. I was not wearing a “bandana” but in fact a blue and white “neckerchief” around my neck, which by the way, I was wearing in rather a jaunty fashion (its called style). Given that our security guard was carrying a sidearm and was glaring at me in a rather alarming fashion, his rather contradictory instruction gave me cause for thought. Should I (a) freeze as instructed or, (b) should I move and remove my neckerchief (aka Bandana). I decided to risk it and remove my lethal neckerchief. Fortunately the situation de-escalated back to DEFCON 5 and I was allowed to pass through security. It makes you think though doesn’t it.

Once in the terminal I needed something to calm my nerves. Clearly a Snickers bar was the order of the day. Then to my horror they wanted USD 5 for a single Snickers Bar and that was before tax! Those that know me well will testify that I am not mean-spirited in the wallet department. However, USD 5 before tax was above and beyond all things reasonable. Shaken but not stirred I settled for a USD 7 (before tax) cup of coffee! I soon realised that Newark airport had been designed to take as much cash off you as possible in the shortest space of time.

As I supped the most expensive coffee known to man I checked my phone to see where my luggage was currently located. To my surprise the Apple Tag lodged in the luggage showed it somewhere over the US mainland en-route to Houston! We then saw that United Airlines had changed our flight to go from Terminal C. So there was an earlier flight with room for luggage but United did not think to ask us if we would like to join our luggage on the earlier flight. We had also passed through security and now found ourselves in the wrong terminal! That week of carefree relaxation aboard QM2 already seemed like a million years ago.

Eventually we managed to find a shuttle and were dispatched to Terminal C where we boarded our flight to George Bush Airport in Houston Texas.

The flight was actually quite comfortable and as we left arrivals and went in to baggage reclaim Rachel and Jon were waiting for us with beaming smiles.

After much hugging Rachel lept in to action like a coiled spring. Within 5 minutes she had organised the United Airline ground staff, located said luggage and we were en-route to Chez Ward.

The next morning we were all up early to be treated with Rachel’s analogue scheduling system:

Now, the creative juices were in full flow and I was already busy with the Type 246 shooting imagery for this blog, when I should have been watching the toast that was under the grill.

It was only when flames were spotted that Kate lept to the rescue, said flames were doused and calm was restored. At this point the technology defeats me but my blog would have been playing “Burning Down the House” by Talking Heads.

I then said to Mrs. C that it wasn’t my fault (mistake one) and that I didn’t mind carcinogenic toast (mistake two). It then became a little difficult to capture any further imagery with manual focus lenses with Mrs. C’s foot on my neck! I was already on a roll……

Panic Over and fresh toast being inserted in to the grill and not where Mrs. c said it should be inserted!

A welcome from the “Ward Watchdog” at the top of the stairs.

After a rather delicious coffee and un-carcenogenic toast, we headed straight out for our first adventure, a visit to “Mission Control”, The Space Centre Houston.

On the move with the Type 246 set to range focusing.

Even the storage tanks looked like flying saucers.

The benefit of our week across the Atlantic on QM2, other than the fine food and rather excellent Martinis, was that we arrived as fresh as a daisy and with zero jet lag.

Before arriving at the Space Centre Rachel advised that we would check out a local souvenir store that would provide all the usual NASA souvenirs but at a fraction of the cost. We eventually arrived at Amy’s Souvenir store. We were warmly welcomed by Amy herself and sure enough we left with armfuls of souvenirs at very friendly prices. We then took the 10 minute drive to Houston Space Centre itself.

First glimpse that we were getting close.

Now let me tell you, this place is not just for kids but has been specifically designed for big kids liked Jon and me. This is all “Boys Own” stuff and from the minute we entered I knew we were going to have a great day.

Our first objective of the day was to get up close and personal with a space shuttle, which was sitting on top of an actual Boeing 747.

Note the angry sky in the distance - This was hurricane season.

Houston we have a problem……Where is the cup-holder?

We then wandered around a mock-up of Skylab and a history of space exploration and I managed to grab the following imagery.

Even in space, when you have to go…… you have to go!

Yours truly would definitely need to lose some weight to fit in there.

What we didn’t realise was that in addition to the visitor centre, Space Centre Houston is still a fully functional federal facility. We were taken to the actual “Mission Control” from which the first moon landings were directed. It really was tremendous and took me back to those black and white BBC TV programmes where Michael Burke would present and analyse the various Apollo missions. They even recreated the whole landing and then we were allowed to capture a few images.

“That’s one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind”.

Great capture of our dear friends and hosts Rachel & Johnathon.

Unfortunately the Apollo Saturn V exhibit was not open but this gives you an idea of its size.

Artemis - Man is going back to the moon.

What a day! you could spend a whole week at Space Centre Houston and it is something not to be missed.

On our return Rachel wanted to introduce us to some local cuisine and we stopped off at “Crazy Alan’s Swamp Shack”.

The food was great cajun seafood. All manner of shrimp, crawfish, catfish and of course alligator. Our waiter said that if we wanted gator that they had a small one in the tank which could be easily dispatched and served with French fries and a cajun sauce! We decided to allow the Gator a stay of execution and went with blackened swamp shrimp pittas….delicious!

Day two involved me not burning down the house and we visited the Glenwood Cemetery. This cemetery is located in the centre of Houston and provides both a fantastic view of the downtown Houston skyline as well as the history of the great and the good of Houston in a beautiful, tranquil setting. Everywhere I looked was a photo opportunity.

I loved the Juxtaposition of someone buried within something that is living.

My personal favourite from our Glenwood visit.

As we headed down to breakfast on day three Rachel’s analogue schedule puzzled me. How could a petrol station be a destination? However, as we pulled off the interstate in to Buc-ee’s all became clear.

Like everything else in Texas Buc -ee’s is larger than life. Built around Buc-ee the beaver (yes I have heard all the beaver jokes both clean and near the knuckle), they allegedly have the longest car wash in the world, almost 300 petrol pumps at each station and a store containing all the things that I didn’t know I wanted, all at very attractive prices.

Add meat, more meat and then extra meat, mix in some chilli, drown in gravy and serve in a bread roll.

For all Chivers family members, can you guess where we bought this years Christmas presents? :-)

After our pit-stop at Buc-ee’s we headed on to Brenham, Texas to Jon’a all time favourite ice cream maker.

Blue Bell have been making ice cream for over 100 years. This is a home grown Texas company who only started exporting outside of Texas in the 1980’s. Whilst they no longer do formal factory tours there is an observation deck from where you can see the entire operation.

Moreover, they have an old-school ice cream parlour which serves all its flavours at USD 1 per scoop and by scoop I mean a Texas Scoop, so huge. There was a constant stream of locals visiting with their families and everybody seemed to be in their individual happy places.

Blue Bell manufacturing facility, Brenham, Texas.

I loved this image from its advertising campaign from the 1970’s.

This image is from another of their advertising campaigns and reflects the company’s roots within the local community.

What a great day! We had experienced the Beaver and got sugared-out in Brenham. We were now en-route to Frericksburg, Texas for yet more adventures. Look out for my next blog, “The Devils Backbone”.

See Y’all.

A Week With Mary…….

October 9, 2024

Regular readers will already know that the past 18 months have been life changing for Mrs. C and me.

Some of you will also know that we both reached one of life’s milestones. I became a “man of a certain age” and after being 39 for the past 20 years, Mrs. C also joined me in what we now call our “decade of discovery”.

You will no doubt be surprised to learn that even after 37 years of marriage (of course, Mrs. C was a child bride) we still have many firsts to celebrate together.

So without wasting a further minute we Carpe Diem’d and booked our first trans-Atlantic cruise. Having always been somewhat sceptical about being locked aboard a vessel with 2000 other “inmates” we decided to do it properly and booked our crossing from Southampton to New York on the flagship of the Cunard fleet, the wonderful Queen Mary 2.

Her Majesty awaits at Southampton's Mayflower Cruise Terminal.

Now as you all know, in another life Mrs. C would have been a military planner and set about the booking of our trip with a laser-like focus. “Stateroom” number 5139 was subsequently selected and reserved. This was located on deck 5; not too high, not too low and in the middle of our vessel so as to benefit from the smoothest of crossings possible. Also an enclosed balcony to allow us some fresh air with privacy (and also the quickest route over the side in the event of an emergency!).

Now these cruises are popular and indeed we booked ours over a year in advance so as to secure the time spot we required. Our logic was to go outside of the main holiday season but early enough to have the chance of some warm weather. Of course, we forgot that this was the North Atlantic, where the only constant is change and that September was the middle of the hurricane season! What could possibly go wrong with that plan?

Arrival at the Southampton Mayflower Cruise Terminal was courtesy of my brother Phil. In another life he had in fact worked aboard the Queen Elizabeth II as a chef and indeed, our dad had worked on both the original Queen Elizabeth and Queen Mary. So for me this trip had some added emotion as I squared the family circle so to speak.

Being an old sea-farer, Phil said he would send us off with a seaman’s breakfast and earlier that morning had knocked up a light serving of egg, bacon, sausage, steak, mushroom, baked beans and tomato, on the basis that we would at least have something to throw up in the event of inclement weather!!

The boarding procedure was just like boarding an airplane. We left our luggage with a charming gentlemen whom we assumed worked for Cunard and about an hour later, having negotiated check-in, customs and security, we arrived at our stateroom, to find our luggage waiting for us. If only British Airways could provide a similar service!

A friendly smile and directions to our stateroom.

We quickly unpacked and spent our first afternoon exploring the ship, which I must say is vast. Some 6,000 steps later and goodness knows how many flights of stairs, we felt like we had found our bearings.

For our departure we went up to Deck 13 which gave us a panoramic view across Southampton, the town of my birth.

Some stormy clouds above looking ominous,,,fingers crossed for a smooth crossing.

Bon Voyage as we gently pull away from the quayside at Mayflower Terminal Southampton.

We were given a send off by this steamer as she passed between us and the quayside with Southampton in the background.

Our departure was planned for 5 pm but we were third in line as the Disney cruise ship was first to leave with the Freudian tones of “Under the Sea” from The Little Mermaid blaring out from her speakers.

Next up was the departure of what may only be described as a Norwegian party/cruise ship which we believe was called the S.S. Halfpissed: clearly named after a town in the far north of Norway where the days are short and they don’t have T.V. The sun had clearly passed over the yard-arm of their vessel at about 10.30 a.m. that morning and lets just say that some people looked to be at least half dressed and a quarter sober.

Disney in the distance as the S.S. Halfpissed crosses our starboard bow in a somewhat zig-zag fashion.

Then it was our turn. With a majesty and elegance that befits her name, our Mary deftly maneuvered away from the dockside and progressed along Southampton Water. It was all quite emotional for me. How many times had my dear dad undertaken this same voyage? We passed the Itchen bridge, over which I had driven to and from my first ever job, at the good old Midland Bank International Division in Castle Way Southampton, along Weston Shore, where as a kid we used to play as my nan and grandad lived just up the road in Barnfield Close, off Weston Lane. As we passed Netley beach, I had a video call from my oldest pal, Nick, who along with his wife Susanne had made the effort to wave us off on our maiden cruise. What absolute stars they are and expect a future cruise adventure with them.

Passing the end of the cruise terminal with the River Itchen and Itchen Bridge in the distance.

At this point and for those of a nautical persuasion, let me provide you with a few facts about QM2:

First Voyage: 12th January 2004

Length: 1,132 ft (345 metres)

Width: 131 ft (39.9 metres)

Draft: 32 ft (9.75 metres)

Height: 236 ft (71.9 metres)

Guest Capacity: 2,691

Guest Decks: 13

Ships Crew: 1,292

In summary, unlike the Norwegian Party Boat the QM2 is not a pleasure cruiser; she is truly an Ocean going liner and very much fit for purpose. With approximately 1 member of crew for every two passengers I sensed we were in for a luxury experience.

QM2 is basically a floating hotel and restaurant where breakfast, lunch, dinner and even supper can be taken in numerous restaurants, along with 24 hour room service. In addition to the Britannia dining room there is a large buffet in the Kings Court, something less substantial in the Carinthia Lounge or if pub grub was to your fancy, the Golden Lion Pub.

Of course for those not travelling steerage and who have a more substantial wallet, there are the exclusive Princess & Queens Grills.

However for our dinner, we were assigned table number 457, a table for two in the Britannia Dining Room, a beautifully elegant dining room.

Not a bad view from our breakfast Table.

The delightful Mrs. C providing rather lovely foreground interest.

Our breakfast table is the table for two directly under the beautiful tapestry of QM2

Our near-neighbors were an absolutely delightful American couple, John and Nancy Jenkins, who hailed from the Windy City (Chicago) and an American Diplomat and his wife, David and Connie Cummings, who were returning to the U.S. following a stint in Iraq, before taking up a new posting in Germany. With such company we were certainly in for many wonderful evenings.

Now, John and Nan had been visiting Devon and Cornwall for the very first time. They seemed to enjoy it, although they did enquire if it always rained so much!

So as the sun slowly disappeared across the horizon and darkness set in, we enjoyed our first dinner afloat, accompanied by a message and a welcome drink from our Captain, Andrew Hall.

Dinner was a nod to the 1970’s comprising a delicate beef consommé, followed by Steak Dianne accompanied by pommes dauphinoise and haricots verts, topped off with a dessert of apple strudel swimming in brandy custard, with coffee and petite fours to finish.

Given our first night’s dinner experience we quickly realized that 7 nights on the Queen Mary 2 was going to be a combined eat & drinkathon, so I decided that “pacing” was definitely in order. Oh yes I liked the idea of this kind of pacing and I was definitely in my happy place.

So with all the food and libations that are available it was clear that we would have to remain pretty active during the voyage. No need to hit the torture room (a.k.a. the gym) as you forget how large the QM2 actually is. Three times around deck 7, the promenade deck, is approx 1.1 miles and with 13 passenger decks and assuming you only take the stairs and avoid the lifts (which we did) you feel like you are climbing a mountain every day. By the end of our week we had averaged 9,944 steps per day and had climbed an average of 18 flights per day!

Passengers getting in their steps on the promenade deck.

Of course, the Promenade deck has other uses and there are plenty of steamer chairs laid out ready for that after dinner snooze.

The other question I had was whether I might get bored spending a week on a ship (remember once aboard you can’t get off). No chance of that. Each day we are presented with a schedule of choice for the day and there appeared to be something for everyone. There were classes to attend, guest speakers, matinée performances of evening shows and the worlds largest floating planetarium.

Mrs. C and I do enjoy any excuse to put on our glad rags and indeed we had two gala evenings to pack for. The first of these was a black and white evening. Mrs. C looked absolutely stunning and I did my best to rock the George Clooney / James Bond look. We decided on a pre-dinner sharpener at the Champagne Bar which certainly set the taste buds tingling.

The second was a nod to the 1920’s and as always Mrs. C looked wonderful as she accessorized in to a 1920’s look.

Generally during the daytime dress code is very informal and shorts and a t-shirt were the order of the day. However, after 6pm they do encourage guests to make a effort and smart casual (no denim) is the norm.

But what about the weather I hear you cry? Well we had a mixture of sun, cloud, light rain and mist. Although the one thing you could be assured of every day was a strong breeze or what golfers might describe as “a three club wind” so a fleece or light jacket is definitely advisable. We are used to this as our apartment in Plymouth looks out across Sutton Harbour and Plymouth Sound and the one thing that is constant by the sea is weather conditions changing at a moments notice.

The Angry Atlantic - Keeping everything crossed that things remain calm.

The sea-state was at times beautifully calm and at others a turmoil. Even though we had our travel wrist bands and took a travel sickness tablet every day, we experienced nothing more than a gentle motion of our trusty vessel, even though at its worst the wind speed reached Force 9 and the wave height 4 metres. This is all due to the design of QM2 with its four huge retractable stabilizers which really do limit the roll of the ship. This is what makes her a true ocean going cruise liner.

The aft decks of our ship were somewhat sheltered and often, despite the weather, people could be seen relaxing in the various hot-tubs whilst others on the promenade deck sat huddled on loungers in their coats and fleeces. Of course we had to have a go and on one of the particularly sunny days we were lightly poached in the outside hot tub and then took a cooling swim in the aft outdoor swimming pool.

The Aft Hot Tub - Temperature set to lightly poached!

Out of the breeze the aft deck is very pleasant to relax and enjoy the view.

Deck 12 was the activity deck. There was a fabulous indoor pool area with a heated pool, hot tubs and very comfortable loungers. A great place to while away an hour or so.

Deck thirteen is the observation deck although during many days this was closed due to the strong winds. However one sunny morning we found it open and armed with my Leica Type 246, 50mm Summarit, an orange filter and a half willing model, I was able to capture images of our glorious Mary from a different perspective.

Always good to know where the helicopter will collect you in the event of an emergency!.

Geometry and shadows - in my happy place.

Now the reason we took a cruise rather than a plane across the Atlantic was (a) it would be one of our “firsts” and (b) as we were spending another 10 days in the States visiting our old Dubai neigbours, Rachel & Johnathan Ward, who now reside in Houston Texas. So we wanted to avoid feeling jet-lagged and knackered on arrival.

Interestingly, every day the ships clock is set back by one hour so that by the time we arrived in New York, we were already on New York time and ready for the adventures ahead (see my next blog, “Going Down South”).

As we continued our gentle cruise across “The Pond” we fell in to a leisurely routine. Normally the mornings were spent exploring the ship (there wasn’t a day when we didn’t get lost) and the afternoons attending a show or activity.

As I mentioned before the evening shows were top notch. Whether is was show tunes and contemporary favorites from The Barricade Boys, Comedy from Jon Courtney, a touch of Shakespeare from members of the Royal Shakespeare Company or dance and songs from the ships own entertainment company, there appeared to be something for everyone. We had chosen the 6.00p.m. Dinner slot so as to be able to attend the 8.15 p.m. shows, which normally lasted for an hour. Then it was time for a nightcap or perhaps a cocktail or three before retiring to our stateroom. This relaxing was becoming really hard work!

Cunard do mix a rather good Vodka Martini - Of course, shaken not stirred!

For me I also enjoyed some creativity of my own, looking to record the voyage with my Leica Type 246 Monochrom. I had brought two lenses, a 28mm Elmarit and 50mm Summarit. At F2.8 and F2.5 respectively, these lenses are both relatively slow in the world of Leica. However, the low level light capability of the Type 246 is superb so no worries on that front. I also had my little Fuji XF10 and for times when a physical camera was too obtrusive, my Iphone with the Leica Lux App.

Cunard Luxury and The Leica Type 246 Monochrom - a perfect match!

The key was portability and damage limitation in the event that I damaged or lost my Leica lenses in some of the sketchier destinations that I intended to visit whilst in the States. As both lenses take an E39 filter, I would share a four stop ND filter (essential to shoot wide open in bright conditions) and an orange filter between the two.

A rather splendid mid Atlantic full moon.

I can't help myself can I - Simply love all the geometry.

Our favourite morning location was the Commodore Club, a delightful lounge on deck 9 at the very front of the ship. We normally accessed this by using a little known glass elevator which also provided its own photo opportunities.

View from the Glass Lift en route to Deck 11. by Day

The Commodore Club was completely up my street. The discreet waiters were on hand to serve morning coffee, or for days when the sun reached over the proverbial yard arm a little early, a pre-lunch Martini. Another happy place for yours truly.

We were also visited each day by our Captain. He would collect his morning coffee and chat with the passengers. Then at 12.00 noon every day the ships horn would sound and he would provide us with an update on our progress, likely weather conditions and interesting facts about our cruise.

The Commodore Club - A great place to chill for an hour or so - Did I mention they serve Martinis as well.

Just a reminder that the weather can be changeable.

The bow displaying "The Commodore's Cufflinks.

You can see in the previous image what look like metal sculptures. These are nicknamed “The Commodore’s Cufflinks” and are in fact spare propeller blades.

Our arrival in to New York was around 6.00a.m. on the Sunday morning. We were determined not to miss it and along with everyone else on the ship we huddled together on deck 13 to celebrate our arrival.

To the resounding applause and cheers of the passengers we made it under the Verrazzano Bridge with a few feet to spare, after which we sailed past the beautiful Statue of Liberty with the lights of Manhattan twinkling in the background. It was pitch black and I had the Type 246 set to an ISO of 10,000 and the 50 Summarit wide-open.

Passing under the Verrazzano Bridge with only feet to spare.

Our first sight of the Statue of Liberty with Manhattan in the background.

Having got my images we headed back to the cabin for a quick shower and change, during which time our Mary had docked at the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal. As I pulled back our curtain and walked on to the balcony of our cabin I was presented with two beautiful shots of the Statue of Liberty and Downtown Manhattan! So we could have had an extra hour in bed! Truthfully, the arrival was breathtaking and I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

Disembarking at Brooklyn Cruise Terminal.

Au revoir Queen Mary 2 and onwards to Houston.

Some two hours later we had fought our way through U.S. Immigration, located our bags and were on a Cunard shuttle bus en-route to Newark Airport and our flight to Houston. Our week with Mary had been truly spectacular and we can’t wait to do it again…. what was that?…oh that was the sound of our bank manager just going in to anaphylactic shock :-)

Ah yes, you thought I had forgotten about The Bench of Contemplation. Well given that we have a nautical theme I decide to capture Mrs. C on the “Deck of Contemplation” as she had a quiet moment of reflection whilst gazing out to sea across the Grand Banks.

What a week. We shared so many happy moments but above all we shared them together. I count myself a very lucky man to have the opportunity to do these things and above all, to do them with the woman I love more than anything else in the world.

What adventures do we have in store as we head off to the Lone Star State. Look out for my next Blog, “Going Down South” as Mrs. C and I continue our decade of discovery.

See Y’all in Texas.

On My Doorstep...........

August 7, 2024

Mrs. C and I love to travel, whether in UK or overseas. I always treat travel as an opportunity to refresh the creative juices and as a source of new imagery for my website and blogs.

However, now that I live full-time in Plymouth UK, I have come to appreciate just how beautiful it is in the area in which we live and just how much there is on our doorstep, that we tend to ignore, just because we see it every day.

So I have started my first ever photo project which I have called “On My Doorstep”. It involves me documenting what I can see on my regular photowalks that are with 15 minutes of my front door.

I view this as a long-term project to cover all four seasons and which will enable me to delve much deeper in to the community where I live.

This initial blog is based on imagery rather than words and I hope to giver you a taster of what is outside of my front door.

1. The view from our balcony.

When we bought our apartment the view from our Balcony was the clincher. Each day its the same yet different. The seasons, the weather and the sun (when it eventually comes out) makes every day so different.

No matter how much I try I can’t seem to capture its beauty in a manner which truly reflects what I can see with my eyes.

Perhaps this is more a case of me needing to develop my skills as a photographer, refining composition and waiting for the right lighting? However, I treat this view as a juxtaposition, on one hand it is something I find deeply calming and relaxing, on the other it has become a challenge as I strive to capture that perfect image (assuming there is such a thing).

Perhaps I should listen to the wisdom of Mrs. C who is constantly quoting Voltaire at me, “not to let perfect be the enemy of good”.

View from my balcony across Sutton Harbour with Plymouth Sound in the distance.

2. Morning Coffee.

Morning coffee at the wonderful Cornish Bakery on Plymouth Barbican @cornishbakery plays a huge part in our daily lifestyle. We have always been coffee people; we like to make an effort and get out, irrespective of the weather, especially with family and friends.

Indeed, it is an opportunity to spend time both talking and listening to each other, skills that are increasingly diminishing in this modern world of social media and screen-based communication.

Cornish Bakery with its view across Sutton Harbour.

We are a family of habit and routine. So, when we walk through the door of the Cornish Bakery, the team are already preparing our order. I guess that’s the benefit of being local and supporting them in summer, winter, rain or shine.

I captured a few images of the Cornish Bakery team. They don’t always dress like this but this was Plymouth Pirate Weekend so they had all entered in to the spirit.

Our walk to the Cornish Bakery is the same each day yet, there is so much to see and imagery to capture.

All peaceful at The Three Crowns but try walking by on a Saturday night!

As you walk along the Plymouth Barbican you come to two well known “Plymouth Establishments”, Coffee and Donuts and Cap’n Jaspers. This is where the motorcycle crowd gather for their morning bacon sandwich and coffee.

Morning coffee and an environmental portrait.

Southside Street with eh famous Plymouth Gin Distillery in the background.

3. Plymouth Hoe.

If you ask most people about Plymouth Hoe, they will tell you it is where Sir Francis Drake played a game of bowls, before vanquishing the Spanish Armada. Indeed it allegedly is, yet it is so much more.

If you are a people watcher and love ever changing scenery, then the walk from our apartment up on to Plymouth Hoe and back again is for you. So much to see en-route as well as when you get there.

Catch a ferry to Mount Batten, Royal William Yard or Cawsand.

Grab a coffee at Alfrescos but watch out for those pesky gulls.

Ocean View - A great stop-off for a lunch or afternoon cocktail.

In my images of Plymouth, you will see that the iconic Smeaton’s Tower, the lighthouse that once stood on the Eddystone Reef, will always figure prominently. The challenge is how to capture it from different perspectives.

Picnic Time - Plymouth Health Food - A Pasty with No Chips!

Those Pilgrims who sailed on the Mayflower to create a life in the “new world”.

We must remember that Plymouth is still a military town and is steeped in history. It is still important for the modern generation to take time to honour the memory of those who gave their lives to ensure the safety of ours.

In memory of those who gave their lives to protect our way of life.

So there you have it. A selection of imagery from within 15 minutes of my doorstep. I will put a specific gallery on my gallery page which I will look to regularly update.

I have to be honest, Plymouth is rather like a football match, a game of two halves. I have only shown you the best bits. However, like all English cities, there is a darker side, one of decay, decline, of desperation and despair and of a cry for help. I have decided to leave that half for the time being. There is so much anger and despair in the world that for the time-being and for the sake of my mental health, I prefer to focus my lens in a more positive direction.

I hope you have enjoyed this initial glimpse of where I live and what effectively has become the area for my local photo walks. It really is a beautiful place and one I would encourage you to visit.

With warmest regards from a warm and sunny Plymouth.

It Ony Takes A Half A Day……

August 3, 2024

In the words of the Carmen Jones Lyric, “it only takes a half a day to be a thousand miles away” or in our case approximately 240 miles by train. So we booked two first class returns and headed off for a week in the big city. Actually I was quite desperate for a trip to London to spend time with the kids and to attend a few special events.

During June we had a similar trip cancelled as I once again caught the dreaded Covid. I know, you thought it was all over. However, I can tell you it is still rife out there and when you have it, it is still not pleasant. Fortunately I am super-inoculated and so it lasted about a week with the usual flu-like symptoms along with a seven day headache. Anyways, enough of the C word and let us move on to things more pleasant.

The beauty about visiting the kids in London is that they all enjoy good food and a libation or three, especially when the bank of mum and dad blows in to town.

I tend not to take photos of our family dinners as I generally find that red wine and manual focus are not necessarily kindred spirits.

As always we hit the ground running with a fabulous Japanese dinner at Stiks N Sushi Greenwich. Being the Patriarch and to help my bank manager retain his sanity I had taken control of ordering the food and if I say so myself all was going pretty “Genki” until I was distracted for just a moment, during which time Anna was let loose on the Yuzu Saki! Ah well, no point being the wealthiest guy in the cemetery.

Next morning we were all together again for a fabulous brunch at Grind Greenwich and “sin alcohol” my focus skills were back in order.

Each day we travelled in to central London on the DLR followed by either the Jubilee or Elizabeth lines. I have found the initial journey through the Canary Wharf district to be a target rich environment from a photographic standpoint. I love the modern architecture and the way it interacts with light and shadows. Here are a selection of my Canary Wharf images.

The motto of this Image is “always look behind you”.

This particular visit to London was going to be quite hectic as we had Many things planned. The first was a visit to Wimbledon to have lunch with Shelagh, one or our oldest and dearest friends. No matter how long it has been since we last got together, we immediately pick-up where we left off. Shelagh is a fantastic cook and as usually produced a wonderful meal accompanied by more than a few bottles of wine. Some say I might have over-participated on the wine front and fallen asleep in the chair. There is, allegedly, an image doing the rounds showing me in the process of “resting my eyes”. I am claiming the 5th Amendment on that front although the next morning I did have one of my heads. Must have been the onions!

The next day also involved food and wine as the young people had treated Mrs. C and me to afternoon tea at the Ritz. Let me assure you tea at the Ritz is everything you would expect to be and more. As we took our seats a charming waiter asked if we would mind starting with a glass of chilled champagne followed by some exquisite finger sandwiches, (of which there were many top-ups), after which the fresh-baked scones arrived with jam and the obligatory clotted cream.

At this point I must digress as there is some debate among the young people as to how to build the perfect scone. Whilst we live in Devon, I hate to admit that we actually prefer the Cornish approach:

Cut the Scone in to two halves. Never eat the Scone like a sandwich.
Spread copious amounts of jam on to each piece as if it were butter. Above all, be generous!
Then you have the perfect platform to add as much clotted cream as possible. If you are concerned that you have not added sufficient clotted cream, then you most certainly haven’t, so keep piling it on.
Finally eat the end result with a large smile while making soothing noises.

The surroundings were sublime, the service was top notch, the food was delightful and Mrs. C was looking radiant. It is fair to say that we were both very much in our happy places.

After this wonderful lunch we left the Ritz, turned right towards Piccadilly and headed to nearby Fortnum & Masons to purchase some loose-leaf tea (their breakfast blend is simply the best) and a few extra goodies, just in case we were unable to maintain our calorie levels.

The next day involved a further treat. Cousin John, a member of the venerable M.C.C. had invited us to Lords to watch the first day of the Test Match between England and the West Indies.

For those lovers of what we cricket fans term as “The Summer Game”, a visit to H.Q. (Lords) is the highlight of the cricketing year. This was to be an extra special visit as it marked the final match for England’s greatest ever fast bowler, James “Jimmy” Anderson. The cricketing glitterati were all there and the powers that be were ensuring that this occasion and Jimmy’s achievements were to be suitably celebrated. His family were there to ring the 5 minute bell, the teams performed a guard of honour and our famous gladiator took to the pitch for the final time to a standing ovation from a crowd of 30,000.

There was a hush in the crowd as Jimmy started his run-up to deliver his last ever “first ball”. As he increased the pace of his run-up the expectation of the crowd reached fever pitch and I was reminded of the opening line of Alfred Lord Tennyson’s famous poem, “Half a league, half a league, half a league onward” although in this case it was not in to the Valley of Death but to deliver a rapier-like delivery straight down the “corridor of uncertainty” almost turning the batsman inside out. The crowd were on their feet as they let out a thunderous roar of appreciation. For certain, there will never be another quite like our Jimmy.

The remainder of the day was a joy, a couple of pints of Pedigree Bitter to wash down some delicious sandwiches and all topped off with a couple of bottles of champagne in the Harris Garden. England Glorious England! Oh and our brave lads also performed well as we skittled-out the West Indies for a modest total.

As always John was the perfect host and we are looking forward to more adventures with him as we darken his door at Great Shoddesden later in the year.

Meantime here are a few memories of this wonderful day:

The Field of Dreams - The atmosphere is building.

As I have said many times to be a tourist for a day in London is such fun and there is so much to do.

Mrs C and I always enjoy a visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington. My advice is to always start the day in their wonderful café and then go straight to the top floor and work your way down. There is so much to see but as a photographer I am always seeking out light and shadows:

Another wonderful place to spend a morning is the Royal Acadamy. I always like to start out at their café (regular readers will have already spotted a theme in my approach to culture) and order a steaming americano accompanied by their sumptuous breakfast bap.

Our specific reason for visiting was to view a picture called “Flaming June” by the artist Frederic, Lord Leighton. Now I am a man that sees the world in monochrome but even to me, this picture was so vibrant that I am breaking my no color rule for the very first time. My image does not do it justice but if I were to ever hang just one color picture on the wall of my living room, this would be it.

We then took the underground to Gloucester Road and after a 30 minute walk through leafy Chelsea we arrived at the wonderful Physic Gardens. This oasis in the heart of London borders the Thames and is an homage to the various uses of plants. Once again on arrival, which conveniently coincided with lunch, we enjoyed a most delicious endive salad with blue-cheese dressing accompanied by roasted honey-glazed carrots. Now, although my natural environment is somewhat protein rich, this no carb vegetarian interlude was a complete delight.

Suitably replete, we spent a wonderful couple of hours roaming through the various flowerbeds. It was such a restful environment and many people had come simply to sit and reflect or perhaps read a book. The image I have chosen to reflect our visit is also my choice for the “Bench of Contemplation”. A finely dressed gent is sitting alone on a bench, enjoying an immaculate packed lunch whilst reading a novel. After all, what does a gentleman do in Chelsea on a quiet Thursday?

We were both very much at peace as we headed towards Sloane Square to catch our train back to Greenwich. En-route I managed to capture an image of the Royal Chelsea Hospital, home to the iconic Chelsea Pensioners, who are all retired soldiers of the British Army.

We always like to spend our final day in London by taking a visit to Covent Garden. We grabbed a modest breakfast of coffee and croissant from Paul’s and whilst Mrs. C swept off on her retail therapy mission to boost the U.K’s flagging GDP, I was left to wander the streets and grab a few images.

Avoiding Eye Contact - The London Underground.

What a fabulous week in our glorious capital. Precious time spent with loved ones while enjoying the sights like a tourist and we still don’t believe we have scratched the surface of what London has to offer.

I do hope you have enjoyed joining us on our London adventure. So Carpe Diem and remember, “It only Takes A Half A Day”!

We have so much planned for the rest of the year so stay tuned and warmest regards from a sunny Plymouth U.K.

Breton Chic!..........

June 18, 2024

Its hard to believe that we are already mid-way through June. 2024 has been such an exciting year for Madam. C et moi and there was no letting up as we prepared to join Aunty Sarah and Mike on yet another adventure, this time with a nautical bent; yes a weekend trip to Roscoff in glorious Brittany.

As many readers know we live in Plymouth located on the coast in the South West of the U.K. and for us, Brittany has a similar coastline, a not dissimilar climate but with the addition of that wonderful Breton cuisine and of course the most wonderful grape!.

It was to be a short trip, just two nights and we had planned to do much walking, some photography and to combine both with plenty of eating and drinking, with Fruit De Mer firmly at the top of my wish-list. Now I wouldn’t say we were keen but we had already telephoned the restaurant to ensure they would guarantee to have everything ready for us on arrival.

For me every trip involves two key decisions:

(a) Choice of headwear and outfit - I firmly believe that there is a hat for every occasion.

As many of you know I may be semi retired but I am definitely not shy and retiring. So, with my Breton Fishermans hat, salty sea-dog beard and a rather jaunty blue and white neckerchief to accompany my blue and white Deal jacket, I would say that the look was what I would term as “Breton Chic”! The other members of our team used various other non-complimentary adjectives and were not so enthusiastic about my attempt to “blend in” with the locals. I merely informed them that it was called style, that I did not want to look like a tourist and that it is always better to be a leader not a follower. The consensus was that I may be a leader but I might like to follow and remain a few steps behind them, especially when passing through French customs. “Qui s’en soucie”! Indeed, little did they all know that whilst in Roscoff I would be looking for an addition to my burgeoning hat collection, that would raise my Breton outfit to the next level. Hold that thought…….

(b) Choice of photography gear.

From a photography stand-point I was travelling light as we would be foot passengers on the ferry and I also intended to do a great deal of walking. I had decided to give the Leica M Type 246 Monochrom an outing accompanied by the wonderful 50mm Apo Summicron (with 4 stop ND filter to avoid clipping the highlights) and the 90mm Leica Summarit F2.4. I felt that should cover most bases. Both lenses were in silver which accented my beard perfectly (you see, the modern style-conscious man thinks of everything). I had also downloaded the Leica Lux app on to my iPhone as I wanted to see if this would give my iPhone imagery a more complimentary look to my camera images.

As La Tante Sarah (LTS) is an executive of Brittany Ferries, our “mode de passage” for this trip would naturally be the flagship ferry of the Brittany Ferries fleet, the rather luxurious MV Pont-Aven. Indeed LTS had kindly taken care of all arrangements and so we knew that our visit would be planned with a military precision. Eh Bien, all we had to do was to be at Brittany Ferries Millbay Docks by 12.30 p.m. As we only live about a 30 minute walk away we decided to go ”à pied” and stop off for un sandwich au bacon en route. Gosh, I am already slipping in to the “Franglais” and we haven’t even crossed La Manche. As regular readers will know its a Chivers family routine to have at least one portion of pork product every day whilst on holiday so this little stop-off was to maintain the family honour and reputation.

Thanks to LTS’s admin skills our check-in was a breeze and we were soon aboard the rather plush ferry, the MV Port-Aven. Once on board we headed straight for our cabin to deposit our luggage. I digress but a trick for young players is to aways book a cabin; when the weather is stormy one can endure “vomissements et nausées” in the privacy of one’s own stateroom and thereafter have a bed to collapse in to and when the ferry is full it might be the only place available in which to find a seat.

Next stop was to head up to the top deck as I wanted to capture some imagery of Plymouth, but with a maritime perspective.

My first aim was to capture the view across Millbay Docks towards the Hoe. Interestingly this was the view that the survivors from the sinking of the Titanic saw when they first arrived back in Plymouth. A sobering thought as we headed out to sea.

Then in to Plymouth Sound and passing West Hoe with the War Memorial and Smeaton’s Tower in the distance.

As we reached the outer limits of the Plymouth Sound I was determined to capture a view of the breakwater and fort.

The foundation stone of the breakwater was laid on 8th August 1812 and the entire structure completed in 1841. This 1,560 metre breakwater not only protects Plymouth Sound and its shipping from storms but also acted to defend Plymouth and its deep-water port during the wars with Napoleon and subsequently during WWI & WWII. To gain a sense of what it took to build, back in 1841 it cost some £1.5 million, which is today equivalent to £126 million. Imagine what that would do to your council tax bill if such a project was considered today.

The breakwater lighthouse was first operational in 1844 and still provides ships with guidance as they enter Plymouth Sound via the deep-water Chanel.

Having successfully captured the required imagery I looked to find the other members of our merry band of brothers. As I met up with them I heard LTS, who as you know is head of family hydration, mention that key phrase to one of the crew members, “Bonjour Matelot ou-est le bar”! I am sure that even if your colloquial french is a bit rusty, you get the drift.

Determined to maximise our use of the facilities we had a few pints of the on-board grog before finding some seats on the upper deck, to take in some rays and also enjoy a few zzz’s.

LTS having an Audrey Hepburn moment on the top deck.

Thankfully our crossing was very smooth and so no problem with sea sickness. As a rule I don’t suffer with it but when needs must the devil drives and like all good boy-scouts I came fully prepared and was wearing a rather stylish pair of travel sickness bracelets acquired from boots for £6.50 in a 2 for 1 offer (you know it makes sense) which were complimented by a double-dose of Stugeron sea sickness tablets (always go big for maximum results). Do they work….well they certainly didn’t make me sick so that’s all good then!

On arrival in Roscoff I passed through customs (some ten feet behind the others) and I noticed the customs officer could not take his eyes off my hat and jaunty neckerchief. Clearly the French appreciate haute-couture.

As the weather was so lovely (and incredibly there were no taxis…well it was dinner time and we were in France so….) we decided to walk the 15 minute journey in to the centre of Roscoff.

Being a ferry port most people, including me, normally drive off the ferry and head off on holiday without giving Roscoff a second glance. What a mistake we have all been making for as I walked through the streets with my Type 246 at the ready, I was clearly having an epiphany (no that is not a euphemism) at the old-world charm of this lovely town.

We arrived at our hotel mid evening and were checked in to an absolutely delightful room with a sea-front view.

After a quick night cap of the local Calvados (apple brandy) we retired for an early night as we were going to have a very busy day ahead of us.

Now when I say sea-view I mean sea-view. I woke up very early and when I opened the curtains to try and catch the sunrise this was the view from my bedroom window.

After a quick shower it was downstairs for breakfast. The French certainly know how to put on a spread. I took the continental option but with a twist. I had a selection of hams and saucisson with cheese, brie and Tomme and of course beautiful crispy local baked baguette all washed down with a steaming hot coffee. The twist, I added some crispy cooked bacon to a fresh baguette, topped with brie, just to keep up the family tradition.

With the tank full we headed off to the port to find our ferry to the nearby Île-de-Batz. Like any French fishing port the first thing you come across are the local fishing boats so I grabbed the obligatory image.

We then found our ferry to the nearby island and bought return tickets for Euros 11 each. Tip of the day, buy a return ticket as the ferry is the only way you are going to get on and off the island. The journey each way is 15 minutes dependent upon the state of the tide; hold that thought……

MV L’Hermine - our trusty ferry pretty much fully loaded.

Mike Apo Summicroned in Monochrom at F2.

A bit of sightseeing en route to the Island.

Now we chose to spend our day on the Island as it offers a good 3 hour walk, the coast line and beaches are picturesque and there are lots of indigenous birds and with Mike, our resident Twitcher present, we had our quick identification resource available to us.

Now I had my Type 246 with me to capture the bigger scene and was not attempting bird photography. Next visit, and there will be a next visit, I will bring my SL2 and the 100-400mm Zoom for some nature photography.

As we disembarked the ferry I grabbed my first shot along the quay wall. I was already in my happy place and as we wondered through the main town I was able to collate the following images.

First view after disembarking the ferry.

Across the bay with the lighthouse “Phare de Lîle-de-Batz in the background.

Now Mike is also a keen photographer and had brought his Fuji XT3 and 18-50mm zoom. He captured this image of the girls searching for things to go in the “nature pocket” whilst yours truly emerged from the shrubbery, Type 246 in hand. He called this “Gorillas in the Mist”.

Guerillas in the Mist - Courtesy of Mike Williams.

Now we are on an island; how difficult is it to get lost? Well it wasn’t long before there was a “discussion” between the girls as to the route we should take. Fortunately yours truly was there with my mountain goat instincts. As I am an ambi-turner, I suggested we turn right (in case of doubt I always turn right) and keep the light house to our right at all times, (given the lighthouse is located in the centre of the island) and we would never be wrong. Voila! we were back on our way again.

So given my sage-like advice and that whenever I looked to the right I could see the light house, I decided to make a series of images of the same, but with different perspectives.

I forgot to mention that as a good boy-scout I had come prepared and en-route to the ferry I had purchased a couple of baguettes of Jambon Beurre as sustenance. After a couple of hours of walking my tummy was rumbling and so we found a quiet beach to consume our picnic and explore.

We then headed off to town for a coffee. We had delicious “Noisettes” which are very similar to macchiatos and really hit the spot when energy levels begin to flag.

As we arrived back to the ferry the words “Huston we have a problem” came to mind. We didn’t appear to have any water!

Oh bugger - where has all the water gone?

However the locals had thought of everything and had build a special concrete jetty out in to the bay, which you don’t normally see when the tide is in. On the Roscoff side we were equally devoid of de L’eau. Then I realised why there was that enormous jetty that was seemingly built in to the sea for no apparent reason. This was our dropping off point when the tide was out.

Crikey what can possibly go wrong, especially after the 2nd bottle of red.

Lobster Pots - already thinking about our dinner and the impending Fruits de Mer.

We now had a real thirst and so we did what most of the locals seemed to be doing, we stopped off at one of the local bars, enjoyed the sun and order a few glasses of the local grog.

A perfect combination - Hydration by Saint Erwann, imagery bt Leica.

It was then back to the hotel (whilst we could still walk in a straight line) for an afternoon siesta and a freshen-up. We agreed to meet downstairs in the bar before dinner for an apero.

When we arrived at the bar LTS was already interrogating Lucas, our young Grog Wallah, as to what was available. In the end Mike and I being easy to please had a couple of beers whilst the girls had two large kir Royals. I have never liked a cheap date and good job as when our Grog Wallah gave me the bill lets just say they weren’t giving them away! Anyway we were on holiday and the girls said it didn’t matter………so it didn’t matter!

Lucas - Our resident Grog Wallah. Image captured with Leica Lux App

A five minute walk away was Le Restaurant Surcouf and Madam was waiting for us. Already primed she served us a most excellent Fruits De Mer sans Nobbly Bits (the nobbly bits being whelks and cockles which no-one wanted).

We were presented with our lobster, who we shall call Francoise. Only problem was Francoise was still twitching. Its a bit like ordering a sirloin steak and trotting in Daisy the cow for approval. However, having crossed that particular ethical rubicon we decided that Francoise would do very nicely grilled and covered in local butter, accompanied by Spider Crab, langoustines and large prawns, backed up by a lovely green salad and a steaming bowl of French fries. All this, on the recommendation of LTS, was to be washed down with a cinq deci of the local chilled white wine.

Now I must digress but a tip from someone who loves lobster. Always order a female of the species as there is more meat on the breast. I am not sure where I heard this little nugget or whether it is in fact true. However It always seems to turn out ok so what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger….except for Francoise who went straight on to grill.

What is it the French say, “A fish must swim three times, once in water, once in butter and once in white wine”. Well bon appetite to that!

When our feast was presented it came along with various implements to crack, prong and scoop. I noticed a charming women on the next table to seemed to have completely eviscerated her crab in to a neat pile of crab meat whilst I seemed to be completely covered in mine. Not to worry Fruit De Mer is a participative dinner and lets say it was absolutely delicious and I fully participated.

Spider Crab - Now where to start with this bad boy? Image captured with Leica Lux App

Job Done! Image captured with Leica Lux App

Its fair to say that after a couple of pre-bed Calvados’s and a couple of Omeprazole I slept like a baby.

Again I woke up early, opened the windows in time to see that whilst the tide had gone out, the MV Amourique, our ride home, was just coming in.

The tide has gone out but the MV Amourique was coming in.

We had a couple of hours to kill before heading off to the port so LTS said they knew of a little beach nearby with great views and an excellent coffee.

Never a good sign - Out with the analogue sat-nav. Image captured with Leica Lux App

There must be something here for La Poche Nature. Image captured with Leica Lux App

A perfect end to a perfect weekend. Image captured with Leica Lux App

They always say that “better a good weekend than a poor fortnight”. I second that and thanks to LTS for organising a fantastic getaway. As we pulled out of Roscoff it was definitely à bientôt.

Ah yes, for those of you still reading you remember I mentioned that I would be looking to upgrade my Breton Chic look. Well I found this wonderful Breton Fishermans cap in the same material as my stylelish hat. What is the difference you may ask? Well it has no peak and as a result it is so much easier to use a camera, especially in portrait aspect. You see, once again I am mixing style with practicality. It is fair to say that our team were a tad harsh when commenting on my new look. I love it but what do you think?