Dziękuję Warszawa............ — Steve Chivers Photography

Well dear friends, Christmas is almost upon us and for La Famille Chivers, this means our annual pilgrimage to one of the european Christmas markets.

This year our choice was Warsaw, which provided us with a number of firsts to celebrate:

This would be our first ever visit to Poland.
This would be the first time that all les jeunes Chivers, plus their respective partners, would be joining us.
Most of all It would be our first opportunity to celebrate the wonderful news that our daughter Anna and her fiancée Matthew had formally announced their engagement.

It was also an opportunity to meet up with our “Dubai family”, Seth, Claire and their three boys, Raif, Atticus and Horatio.

For Mrs. C and me, the holiday started at the Thistle Hotel Heathrow. The family gathered in the bar the night before in order to start the trip with a few glasses to toast Anna and Matthew on their engagement and to also enjoy a family meal.

Also, the next morning we would all jump in to one of their driverless pods and be delivered to Heathrow Terminal 5.

Cheers for Chivers! - I am never happier than when we are all together.

The next morning everyone met in reception at 6.00 a.m. Remarkably, considering how much alcohol had been consumed the night before, there were no hangovers and we made our way across to Terminal 5. I have to say that the driverless pod (a sort of monorail) was perfect and completely took the stress out of wondering whether taxis would arrive on time.

Fortunately the planets aligned, as did British Airways and Emirates Airlines, and 2.5 hours later we were all meeting up in arrivals at Warsaw’s Chopin International Airport. The Chappels arrived at approximately the same time and when we met up there was much hugging and kissing, two black Mercedes people carriers whisked us in to the centre of Warsaw and we checked in to the Sofitel Warsaw.

Our home for the weekend - The Sofitel Warsaw with the Palace of Culture and Science in the distance.

Mrs. C and Claire then set about check-in and after some intense negotiation that made Brexit look like a walkover we all walked away with room upgrades and Mrs. C used her Sofitel membership to obtain free welcome drinks for all.

So after a rapid check-in we all headed for the bar to enjoy our welcome beverage. As I walked up to the bar I smiled at the barman and used my only polish phrase,”Cześć, mójjest duży”, which roughly translates to “hi, mine’s a large one”. Our barman was clearly a bi-lingual comedian and he responded in perfect English by saying “so was his, but in the meantime would I like a drink!”?

I gave our barman one of Mrs. C’s 1000 yard stares and then whipped out my clincher; no that’s not a euphemism, but our complimentary drinks card. He again smiled and said we could have anything we wanted. I was not about to fall for that old chestnut as I could already hear Chipmunk asking if there was any Bollinger and Anna was perusing the drinks menu in search of the infamous and incredibly expensive yuzu saké. I knew that once team Chivers learned that free drinks were on offer, carnage would ensue. So, I called his bluff, ordered six glasses of champagne, a negroni and a cosmopolitan and crossed my fingers. Sure enough, five minutes later our drinks arrived and no bill was tendered. Well done Mrs, C our trip in Warsaw had formally started.

Chivers Family Motto: “Be Jolly & Crack Open The Bolly”.

Before going any further I do need to provide some additional information and clarifications:

Even though my French is not bad and my German is vaguely comprehendible, Polish is just about impossible. With so many Z’s, J’s, W’s and C’s in every sentence Polish scrabble must be a very high scoring game. So google translate was clearly going to be the order of the day.
Due to its geography, daylight hours in Poland in December seem short as it is dark by 3.30 p.m. So, if you are visiting at this time of year an early breakfast is advisable.
The currency is the Zloty and there are about 5 Sloty’s to the pound. Most establishments welcome the use of debit and credit cards and I must say that even Warsaw, as a capital city, appeared to be very good value.
Surprisingly, the weather was nowhere near as cold as last year’s visit to Prague. However, there was no sun and a constant greyness hung over the city. Notwithstanding, a hat, gloves and a warm coat are essential as late afternoon the temperature seem to drop rapidly.
Mrs. C had decided to fully embrace the polish culture on this trip and was only answering to her Polish pseudonym “Minka”. (Please google BBC Radio 4 sitcom Hut 33 to understand more).
From a photographic perspective the light was extremely flat and posed a challenge. I had travelled with the Leica Q Type 116 which always copes well in low light, is an easy carry and with a three year old whizzing around the place, auto-focus is definitely a plus.

I have to say that I love to be pleasantly surprised and indeed Warsaw pleasantly surprised me. Town appeared very clean and organised and our hotel was located just 5 minutes from the Old Town and was also situated opposite Saxon Square, the largest city square in Warsaw, which also contains the tomb Of The Unknown Soldier.

Although darkness was closing in we decided to walk-off the champagne and headed off along Nowy Świat and came across Minka’s all-time favourite shop, “Tchibo”. Minka was “In like Flynn” and when then young people realized there was a cafe so were they.

Of course the lady serving the coffees did not speak English and unlike our hotel barman was also not a bi-lingual comedian, especially when I told her that mine’s a large one!

After some rather painful sign language, shouty english and use of google translate, 11 drinks were ordered and Minka was able to indulge herself and our family in her native environment.

I did manage a Tchibo portrait of my beautiful Anna.

By the time we had finished coffee it was dark and we wondered our way back to the hotel. Given that daytime light was grey and very flat, it was the night that really brought Warsaw alive:

The next morning we woke early and when I pulled back the curtains we had a full view of Saxon Square. We could see a military parade and so we went to investigate. It appears that every morning there is a flag ceremony and the changing of the guard at the Tomb Of The Unknown Soldier.

Our destination for the day was the Christmas Market and so we headed off along Krskowskie Przedmiescie.

It then dawned on me that the reason everything was so neat and tidy was that the old town was painstakingly rebuilt after being ravaged during WW2.

We eventually found the Christmas market which was actually divided in to two locations. What appeared to be the main market was in fact a collection of food stalls and was a little disappointing. However, running along a portion of the city walls was a row of stalls with all manner of arts and crafts. Our only disappointment was that they were not switching on the Christmas lights until 6th December so we were a week early!

Christmas market - As the light faded the market became busier.

Now when in Eastern Europe a firm favorite for any walkabout is to locate a shop selling chimney cake. Think sugar, cake, hot and steamy oh and did I mention sugar!?. What is not to like. Claire was on it and soon, enough chimney cake was procured to sink a battleship. Everyone was in their happy place.

Claire is on it - Chimney cake please and we will have one of every flavour.

Yet another successful visit to a christmas market.

The temperature is falling and talk is of hot coffee and more sugar!

After a good walk around Christmas markets and overdosing on chimney cake, caffeine seemed the order of the day. We located a local cafe that could accommodate eleven, the young people did what young people do and chilled out and I went off with my single Polish phrase to order the drinks and some food. This time my Polish was not needed as the cafe was staffed with delightful young students who all spoke perfect English….phew!

For once this visit was not about documenting our cultural activities, it was about sharing precious moments with the people we love.

The glow of someone very much in love - to quote Matthew’s mother, it makes our heart sing with joy.

What a beautiful ring - well done Matthew.

Minka giving her future son-in-law some helpful advice! As I always say, after 37 years of marriage I am one of the wisest people I know!

Everyone appears to be in their happy place.

Our advisor on all matters equestrian and Chipmunk’s lovely partner Kitty, flying the flag for Racing Post Bloodstock.

In amongst all the eating and drinking we did manage a cultural visit to one of Warsaw’s landmarks, The Palac Kultury i Nauru (The Palace of Culture & Science).

At a height of 237 metres it is the second tallest building in both Warsaw & Poland. The building was completed in 1955 in what may be described as the Stalinist architectural style.

The building houses various public and cultural institutions. The entry fee was 20 Zlotys per person and you take the lift to the 30th Floor, where there is an observation platform which provides the best views of Warsaw.

Definitely in the Stalinist architectural style.

Up to the 30th floor for the observation platform.

Someone travelled a long way to seal their love for each other.

So that was our Warsaw adventure and a final opportunity to capture some images of the people we love.

Well dear Friends, I think that brings 2024 to a close. Mrs. C and I would like to thank all those who have followed our many adventures over the past year. Your support, comments and encouragement really does mean a lot to us.

Ah yes, you thought I had forgotten about the final bench of contemplation for 2024.

Minka on The Tchibo Bench of Contemplation.

May we wish you all a very Happy Christmas and let us all look forward to a peaceful and more tolerant 2025.

With love and best wishes from Plymouth U.K.