All of a sudden August is upon us and Mrs. C and I have been feeling the need to do a bit of traveling. So, we took cousin John up on his kind offer to spend a few days in the country, fired up the Polo, entered Great Shoddesdon in to the sat-nav and headed up the A38.
Now cousin John, although retired, has many strings to his proverbial bow. He was and continues to be a great sportsman. In his day he was a fine cricketer and “Whispering Death Hurle” is still reveered in the hallowed corridors of the Trojans Cricket Club, as the bowler who terrorized many a batsman down the “corridor of uncertainty” whilst, when fortifying the middle order, subjecting many a naive young bowler, who dared to stray fuller than a good length, to the “long handle”. To cap-it off he is a member at HQ (that’s the M.C.C.) and one of the Somerset C.C. faithful.
During retirement, he turned his hand to Bowls and became Club Champion at Salisbury Bowls Club and was capped at County level having been selected for Wiltshire. He also enjoys the odd pint of Timothy Taylors best bitter so that’s all good then! However, I digress……
Being a keen historian, John now acts as a guide for the tours of Salisbury Cathedral’s famous spire. Although Mrs. C is somewhat altitudinally challenged, she was determined to overcome her fear of heights and experience cousin John’s “Tower Experience” first hand.
To give context to our visit to Salisbury Cathedral, John felt it was important to first visit the earliest settlement of Salisbury. Located some two miles to the north of Salisbury, the Iron Age hill fort of Old Sarum dates back to around 400BC.
The site continued to be developed during the Roman occupation, the Saxons later used it as a stronghold against the marauding Vikings and the Normans created a motte-and-bailey castle, a stone curtain wall and a great cathedral.
King Henry 1 built a royal palace within its walls and the site continued to be used for some 300 years until disputes between the Sheriff of Wiltshire and the Bishop of Salisbury caused the removal of the church into the nearby plain.
By the 13th century and as the ‘new Salisbury” developed, Old Sarum was slowly dismantled until the site was sold by Henry VIII in 1514.
Interestingly it continued to have a parliamentary representation and became one of the most notorious “rotten boroughs" and until the passing of The Reform Act of 1832, it served as a pocket borough the Pitt Family.
We chose a beautiful day to visit Old Sarum and here are a few images of our explorations.
What a day with views across Salisbury Plain
Inside the Old Keep
Across the Rubicon in to Old Sarum Fort
The ruins of the original Salisbury Cathedral
The Spire of Salisbury Cathedral as seen from Old Sarum
What must this view have looked like when the fortress was originally constructed?
Having gained an understanding of where and how it all started, we headed off for Salisbury and its beautiful Cathedral.
Salisbury Cathedral, formally the “Cathedral Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary”, is an Anglican cathedral, is the mother church of the Diocese of Salisbury and is the seat of the Bishop of Salisbury.
The Cathedral can only be described as impressive and is widely regarded as one of the leading examples of early english gothic architecture.
Its main body was completed over a 38 year period, from 1220 to 1258. The Spire (our ultimate destination), stands at a height of 404 feet (123 meters) and has been the tallest church spire in the United Kingdom since 1561.
The Cathedral continues to hold a number of other records, having the largest cathedral close (the area immediately around the main cathedral building) encompassing some 80 acres and the largest cloister.
As we walked from the car-park to the main entrance of the Cathedral, I was in awe that a building of this size and intricacy could have been constructed over 800 years ago. Just consider the logistics alone of transporting all that stone by horse and cart, let alone the craftsmanship that was required.
As I walk closer the beauty of Salisbury Cathedral emerges
Embracing the shadows
Interestingly, the Cathedral holds one of four copies of the Magna Carta Libertatum (translated from the medieval Latin as “Great Charter of Freedoms”).
This royal charter of rights was first drafted by the then Arch Bishop of Cantebury, Cardinal Stephen Langton, and was agreed by King John of England, at Runnymede, near Windsor, on 15th June 1215.
Its purpose was to make peace between the unpopular King and a group of rebel barons and promised protection for the barons against illegal imprisonment, provided access to swift justice and limitations on feudal payments to the Crown.
Whilst containing many good intentions none of the parties to the charter honored their commitments and the charter was annulled by Pope Innocent III.
In 1216, the regency government of Henry III reissued the document and it finally acquired the name “Magna Carta” (Great Charter). It was again reissued in 1225 and later in 1297, at which point it was confirmed as part of England’s statute law.
In order to protect this fragile document it is maintained in very low light and no photography is allowed. However there is a full translation next to the original and it makes very interesting reading.
Whilst waiting for the tour to commence, I took the opportunity to collect a few images.
“Justice For All” by Yinka Shonibare
Reflections in the water from the main font provides a different, albeit wonderful perspective
Now it was time for our tour. Comprising of 9 people plus our guide (cousin John), the duration of the tour is approximately 1.75 hours and involves five different climbs, comprising 332 steps, to an eventual altitude of 200 feet. It is not for the feint of heart. Oh and you better use the toilet facilities before you start, as once the tour begins there is no turning back.
Our first climb brought us to a balcony with uninterrupted views along the length of the Cathedral. It was here that I managed to capture the cathedral in all its glory (IMHO).
John in full guide mode
Salisbury Cathedral in all its Glory
Across the Roof above the nave
Having reached the base of the main Spire we were confronted with a vertical tower of spiral steps leading to the next level. I gulped and looked at Mrs. C who was keeping it together. If we were going to turn back it would have to be now.
However, “when needs must the devil drives” and always Mrs. C stepped up to the plate and we started to climb. I was trying to be brave and supportive but I must say that I had to take a few deep breaths along the way.
Crikey, you mean we actually have to climb up this!
Of course, John is an old pro and managed all the next steps in relatively easy stages and his inciteful historical knowledge and witty repartee made the whole process a joy.
Once you reach the 200 foot level, there are four doors leading to a very narrow outside viewing balcony. One is closed due to nesting by Peregrine Falcons but the other three provided spectacular views.
John and our merry band enjoying a truly spectacular climax to the tour
The Cathedral and Close from a different perspective.
I was so proud of Mrs. C for reaching the top and for coming out on to the balcony. The only way to defeat one’s fears is to confront them although easier said than done!
By the way, coming down is just as difficult as going up but buoyed by her success Mrs. C was like a gazelle and I had trouble keeping up.
I have only scratched the surface with my images and I leave the rest for you to discover when you take the Tower Tour. Trust me, go online and make the booking, you will not regret it.
Once we finished the formal part of the tour I was free to wander around the Cathedral. Here is a selection of imagery which I hope conveys the marvelous experience that awaits the visitor.
As we were leaving we came to a huge oak door which was locked. I managed to capture this image “through the keyhole”.
What a wonderful day and as all English, the best way to finish is a cup of tea in an English country garden. As I don’t take images of cups of tea here is my ‘artistic” interpretation.
Time for a cuppa
As always my final image has to be Mrs. C in John’s beautiful cottage garden, sitting on “The Bench of Contemplation”.
The Bench of Contemplation
So dear readers, another adventure comes to an end. As always we managed to combine, culture, calories and the odd libation or three with precious time spent with the people we love.
I hope you enjoyed our brief ntour of Salisbury Cathedral. There are many more adventures in the pipeline, so see you all again soon.
Warmest regards from Plymouth.